Global active ingredients player Sabinsa has launched a new skin care formulation derived from a native Indian fruit called phyllanthus emblica, commonly known as the edible amla fruit.
The newly developed formulation has been named Saberry + Cococin, and has recently been awarded a US patent, which acknowledges the significant research and development that has gone in to its development.
In particular, it is the Saberry that was originally developed using the amla extract, and which the company says has been standardized using a valid biomarker β-glucogallin.
Anti-microbial, ant-inflammatory and antioxidant properties
Preliminary research into this extract has shown it to have efficacy specific to medicinal and skin care applications, which include antimicrobial properties, together with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
The Cococin part of the formulation is based on dried coconut water solids, which the company manufactures using its own proprietary lyophhilisation technique.
The combined formulation results in a skin care ingredient that is devoid of added sugar or carbohydrates and means that it retains the nutrititive value of the coconut water with respect to the minerals, vitamins, aminoacids and electrolytes it contains.
Targetting the dermal papilla cells
The formulation specifically targets the dermal papilla cells from damaging stress signals, which can help in the regeneration of skin cells, as well as containing inflammation, as well as producing useful anti-microbial proteins.
Dermal papilla cell clusters are mesenchyme cells, which are also reservoirs of multi-purpose stem cells and are believed to play a vital part in the regeneration of the epidermis.
Currently the company’s markets the Saberry and Cococin separately as cosmeceutical ingredients, with Saberry being targeted at the anti-aging and hair care categories, while Cococin is marketed as a moisturizer and rehydration ingredient for skin and hair care applications.