Naturex develops AHAs for skin radiance

The line of Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are exclusively extracted from natural sources and target the anti-ageing and skin care market.

Skin whitening and brightening has long been a popular trend in Asia, and Business Manager Yohan Rolland tells CosmeticsDesign-Asia.com that paying close attention to trends helps Naturex to develop collections such as Radiance to meet consumer demand.

“We are seeing a slight move away from BB creams. The trend is now to remove make-up and have skin creams encouraging natural radiance,”​ he says.

Radiance trend​

The number of new skin care products launched with a radiance claim has been multiplied by six in the last ten years, according to Naturex, and more than half of the product launches targeting skin complexion carried a ‘natural’ claim in 2013.

This has seen the French firm develop its AHAs as they are well known for their skin smoothing properties and protect the skin from oxidative damage.

In its range, Naturex has designed extracts of hibiscus and cranberry with concentrations in AHAs reaching 45-65%, which charts well considering most natural AHAs are only available at relatively low concentrations.

Adapting for use​

According to Rolland, Naturex has been working hard to ensure that these acids can be formulated easily and effectively into skin creams, adapting them for cosmetics use.

One example of this is to separate the anthocyanin from the organic acids to take the colour out of the formulation as the hibiscus and cranberry extracts are both naturally bright red. This means the AHAs have no impact on the colour of the finished product in liquid or powder form, which is an important factor for consideration.