China focus: Latest developments in China’s booming beauty market

By Hui Ling Dang

- Last updated on GMT

[Getty Images]
[Getty Images]
We round up recent developments in the Chinese beauty market, including Inoherb’s expansion into South East Asia, Estée Lauder on prestige beauty rebound, Coty’s confidence in high-end skin care sector, Shiseido’s price-competition concerns, and latest research findings.

Herbal hero: C-beauty brand Inoherb eyes overseas growth potential in SEA

Chinese herbal skin care brand Inoherb is exploring expansion into South East Asia as it anticipates a C-beauty skin care boom.

Inoherb is a Shanghai-based skin care brand that integrates Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) principles into its product formulations, using ingredients like ginseng, licorice root, and white peony.

In April, the brand officially debuted in Singapore with health and beauty retailer Guardian, making it one of the first C-beauty brands to be available with the chain.

Since its launch, the brand has grown by double-digits monthly, according to Helen Wong, managing director, Hebeloft, which represents the brand exclusively in SEA.

P. acnes inhibitor: Bamboo vinegar found to have similar properties to lauric, azelaic acid

A Chinese study has revealed that the organic acids found in bamboo vinegar demonstrated effects comparable to lauric and azelaic acid in inhibiting Propionibacterium acnes​.

Bamboo vinegar is “the condensed liquid of bamboo obtained in a high-temperature oxygen-free environment”, whose composition includes over 200 organic chemical constituents, primarily organic acids, phenols, ketones, alcohols, and esters, with acetic acid serving as the principal component.

This study conducted by researchers from Central South University of Forestry and Technology in Changsha, China suggested that it has potential as an anti-acne solution when paired with activated bamboo charcoal.

Estée Lauder: Global prestige beauty rebound by 2026 contingent on China recovery

Estée Lauder is hopeful that global prestige beauty will have mid-single digit growth by fiscal 2026, providing the China market gradually stabilises and resumes growth.

Fabrizio Freda, president and chief executive of the Estée Lauder Companies, was speaking at the firm’s fiscal 2024 earnings conference, when he said the prestige beauty segment was unlike to recover in the next fiscal year.

For fiscal 2025, the company expects global prestige beauty to grow 2% to 3%.

This forecast reflected the strength of the developed and emerging markets, which the firm believes will offset what looks to be continued declines in China and the Asian travel retail markets.

Coty gears up Lancaster, Orveda for China’s ‘inevitable’ skin care rebound

Coty has revealed its confidence in China’s high-end skin care sector for Lancaster and Orveda, despite forecasting “negative growth” for the category in the coming months.

Coty is preparing for the anticipated resurgence of skin care growth in China, beginning with its Lancaster brand.

The company has successfully launched a Lancaster flagship and its ultra-premium Ligne Princiere​ line in May last year.

Shiseido pressured in China by increasing price consciousness among consumers

Japanese cosmetics major Shiseido Company is facing mounting pressure in China as price sensitivity among locals intensifies price competition.

“Consumers are looking for the channel or touchpoint where they can purchase at the cheapest price. That has become more active and more aggressive among the consumers,” ​Toshinobu Umetsu, chief executive of Shiseido China, said during the firm’s 2024 first half (H1) earnings conference.

This has led to an intense price competition among retailers, he added.

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