Ahead of speaking at the InCosmetics Global trade show in Paris this April, VP of beauty market intelligence and trends company Beautystreams, Michele Superchi, shared his expertise on what’s now and what’s next for the longevity boom…
Personal care major Unilever has developed a low-cost topical formula that delivers a fresh, young and lively look to the skin via a blend of vitamin C and olivine extract.
It is time for beauty to ditch the ‘anti-ageing’ discourse and instead opt for positive and holistic messaging and innovation that takes a preventative and celebratory approach to ageing, say executives from L’Oréal, Unilever and Beautystreams.
Special Edition: Inside-Out Beauty – Science And Product Innovation
Supplements containing colourless carotenoids offer promise as a dietary intervention for photoprotection and wider skin health at a time when consumers are increasingly turning to inside-out strategies, finds a review.
Research on alternative actives for deodorants and antiperspirants is building, but efficacy testing is limiting advances and most successes in the category remain based on ingredients introduced more than 50 years ago, say researchers.
International personal care major Colgate-Palmolive has developed an active stannous, fluoride and potassium translucent charcoal toothpaste that offers protection from caries, erosion and hypersensitivity.
Scientific knowledge on the bioactivity of organic biomass extracts and agri-food waste has fast advanced in recent years, highlighting potential for the development of topicals targeting skin photoageing, say researchers.
As blue light protection innovation continues to surge, further research must be focused on understanding the mechanisms by which exposure leads to skin damage, suggest researchers.
International beauty major Coty has developed an active antiperspirant formula that offers a long-lasting fragrance after application using a blend of lotus flower extracts.
Oil extracted from Korean red ginseng byproduct offers promise in the development of active topicals targeting skin and hair health, alongside wider ingestible formulas, say researchers.
Special Edition: ACTIVE BEAUTY – VITAMINS, MINERALS AND PLANT POWER
Topical cosmetic application of vitamin C is more effective than oral supplementation when targeting skin health, but challenges remain around stability and absorption, finds a review.
Special Edition: ACTIVE BEAUTY – VITAMINS, MINERALS AND PLANT POWER
As mushrooms continue to garner interest in the wider wellness category, certain compounds could offer future promise in the edible and topical beauty space, say researchers.
A century-old method using live virus bacteriophages has the potential to make its revival in skin care via formulations designed to target blemish-prone skin, says US supplier Biocogent.
French-headquartered venture capital firm Seventure Partners plans to unlock a third wave of microbiome innovation funds next year, aiming to invest €300 million in more than 20 cutting-edge companies, its CEO says.
Japanese personal care major Kao Corporation has blended carbonated water into a shampoo formula for curly hair to improve the penetration and effectiveness of its curl-loosening ingredient, offering better style control at the washing stage.
Beauty-from-within remains the number-one reason women and men take collagen supplements, according to a fresh five nation survey, and so science-backed claims substantiation will be key moving forward, says an expert.
Cosmetic formulators must start thinking more holistically about the wider potential of multifunctional ingredients that can offer product protection and more, says Symrise.
The potential of naturally derived plant-based cosmetics and nutricosmetics has not yet been fully harnessed when targeting oxidative stress and inflammation-related skin ageing, say researchers.
Active hair care and skin care startup Wild Science Lab is expanding its retail footprint into the Middle East, opting for a shop in shop model that enables consumer consultation on its preventative and targeted products.
Australian medical cannabis expert Cann Global has forayed into skin care with a natural CBD and hemp skin care brand Fuss Pot, launching in France this month.
Biotechnology continues to fast-evolve, presenting great opportunities for the beauty industry to advance in new molecules, improved processes and evidence-based actives, says Givaudan Active Beauty.
Active lip care brand Esho is continuing its rise in beauty with a flurry of new launches and retail partnerships on the horizon as its founder aims to bring lips to the forefront of personalised routines.
International beauty major L’Oréal has reported a significant rise in full-year 2021 sales and net profit globally, with Latin America and North Asia performing particularly well and business in its Luxe and Active Cosmetics divisions leading the surge.
Special Edition: INSIDE-OUT BEAUTY – THE RISE OF EDIBLES AND FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
A round-up of our scientific study coverage on inside-out beauty ingredients spotlights tomatoes, pine bark and red ginseng, amongst others, as promising ingredients for industry to consider closely.
Active beauty brand Solyph is aiming to tap into what it believes are greater opportunities for the brand following the increase in personal health and wellness concerns that have accelerated due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Deciem-owned prestige skin care brand NIOD is launching into a dedicated corner at French department store La Samaritaine – a move the company hopes will push it into the spotlight to follow in the footsteps of sister brand The Ordinary.
Manufacturers should pull back on making strong claims and focus more on consumer education, holistic health and wellness concepts and ingredient innovation when addressing immunity in the beauty and personal care space, say experts.
Special Edition: Cannabis beauty - Innovation and science in CBD and cannabinoids
Cannabidiol (CBD) may have stolen the limelight in cannabis beauty so far, but there are over one hundred minor cannabinoids worth studying with significant potential for future innovation, says cannabinoid specialist Treehouse Biotech.
Combining products into skin concern-targeted kits is a smart strategy when trying to educate consumers on the importance of routines, says the retail brand manager of SkinCeuticals.
Belgium-based startup Craith Lab has shunned the direct-to-consumer (D2C) model for its epigenetic skin care brand, opting instead to distribute products via trained beautician and salon networks – a necessity when working with such complex formulations,...
French ingredient major Silab is ramping up its biotechnology capacity to plug rising demands for actives derived from yeast, bacteria and microalgae in skin care and hair care.
Special Edition: Active skin care - protection and healing in a post-COVID world
The ongoing COVID-19 crisis has propelled skin health to the top of the beauty agenda, as consumers seek out brands that plug new needs around skin barrier protection, hydration and cleansing, says the president of L’Oréal Active Cosmetics.
Special Edition: Active Skin Care - protection and healing in a post-COVID world
Peptides are increasingly used as active beauty ingredients which has brought the bioavailability and stability of these amino acid chains under increased scrutiny, with many novel chemical and physical methods now being tested to improve these aspects,...
International beauty major L’Oréal has reported an overall loss in net profit for the full year of 2020, despite a spike in sales for the fourth quarter, most notably in active cosmetics and across China.
Global flavour and fragrance major Givaudan has completed the acquisition of Italian botanical specialist Indena and announced plans to acquire French biotech firm Alderys – all part of a wider drive to strengthen active beauty capabilities.
French dermocosmetics firm Laboratoires Expanscience has developed an active ingredient for dark circles and under-eye puffiness using avocado by-product sourced from Peru.
UK skin health firm SkinBioTherapeutics has signed a commercial deal with Croda International for the development of a microbiome-targeted skin care ingredient using its patented technology.
Special Edition Newsletter: Water Reduction Formulation
Ingredients maker Lucas Meyers Cosmetics has launched a flower-powered anti-ageing active that it claims can reduce sweat gland activity to keep skin looking fresh post-workout.
The Canadian company announced its move into the new consumer goods sector just this week. lululemon’s initial personal care product portfolio is small but carefully targeted to meet the needs of the brand’s active consumers.
![The blend of the two actives works synergistically to improve the overall 'glow' and appearance of the skin [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/brand-innovation/unilever-patents-vitamin-c-olivine-skin-care-formulation-for-energising-glow/16351007-1-eng-GB/Unilever-patents-vitamin-C-olivine-skin-care-formulation-for-energising-glow.jpg)
![As consumers navigate a 'grey hair movement' but preventative skin care holds strong, the beauty industry must follow suit - developing products and marketing materials that match fresh ageing ideals [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2023/03/21/ageing-in-beauty-must-move-from-anti-ageing-to-prevention-holistic-innovation-and-messaging-say-experts/16269712-1-eng-GB/Ageing-in-beauty-must-move-from-anti-ageing-to-prevention-holistic-innovation-and-messaging-say-experts.jpg)
![Consumers are increasingly open to dietary intervention strategies for skin health since the COVID-19 pandemic [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2023/03/16/beauty-supplements-for-photoageing-with-colourless-carotenoids-promising-finds-review/16254247-1-eng-GB/Beauty-supplements-for-photoageing-with-colourless-carotenoids-promising-finds-review.jpg)
![According to the review, many 'fundamental questions' remain unanswered in the field of efficacy testing for active ingredient alternatives [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/deodorant-antiperspirant-innovation-still-based-on-50-year-old-active-ingredients-finds-review/16248469-1-eng-GB/Deodorant-antiperspirant-innovation-still-based-on-50-year-old-active-ingredients-finds-review.jpg)
![Colgate-Palmolive has developed a translucent activated charcoal toothpaste - very different to the opaque and dark options currently on the market [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/colgate-palmolive-patents-active-charcoal-toothpaste-with-stannous-and-potassium-salts-for-caries-protection/16223548-1-eng-GB/Colgate-Palmolive-patents-active-charcoal-toothpaste-with-stannous-and-potassium-salts-for-caries-protection.jpg)
![Research into soil, compost and agri-food waste continues to rise, shedding light on interesting bioactive characteristics of compounds that can be used in skin care [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/agri-food-waste-and-organic-biomass-promising-for-protective-beauty-development-says-review/16221697-1-eng-GB/Agri-food-waste-and-organic-biomass-promising-for-protective-beauty-development-says-review.jpg)
![There are a raft of theories available and ongoing research happening to identify the precise process behind blue light-induced skin damage [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2023/02/24/blue-light-skin-damage-science-must-focus-on-mechanisms-of-action-say-researchers/16198408-1-eng-GB/Blue-light-skin-damage-science-must-focus-on-mechanisms-of-action-say-researchers.jpg)
![The formula contains a blended lotus extract that also offers active properties [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2023/02/20/coty-files-patent-on-antiperspirant-with-long-lasting-fragrance-using-lotus-blend-from-provital/16183967-1-eng-GB/Coty-files-patent-on-antiperspirant-with-long-lasting-fragrance-using-lotus-blend-from-Provital.jpg)
![Red ginseng oil - extracted from the byproduct of traditional ginseng manufacturing - contains a plethora of active compounds suitable for skin and hair care applications [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/red-ginseng-oil-extract-promising-as-skin-and-hair-care-topical-finds-review/16147562-1-eng-GB/Red-ginseng-oil-extract-promising-as-skin-and-hair-care-topical-finds-review.jpg)
![Vitamin C or ascorbic acid offers many skin health benefits when incorporated into topical formulations, from UV damage protection to collagen maintenance [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2023/01/17/vitamin-c-in-topical-cosmetics-promising-for-skin-health-says-review/16092233-1-eng-GB/Vitamin-C-in-topical-cosmetics-promising-for-skin-health-says-review.jpg)
![The beta-glucans and polyphenols in mushrooms are particularly interesting for the cosmeceutical and nutraceutical spaces [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2023/01/05/mushrooms-offer-cosmeceutical-nutraceutical-promise-around-skin-health-immunity-and-wellness-finds-review/16057928-1-eng-GB/Mushrooms-offer-cosmeceutical-nutraceutical-promise-around-skin-health-immunity-and-wellness-finds-review.jpg)
![L'Occitane says the extract is high in antioxidants and thus can reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin and limit protein carbonylation [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/l-occitane-korean-chili-pepper-extract-research-for-skin-radiance-promising/15987626-1-eng-GB/L-Occitane-Korean-chili-pepper-extract-research-for-skin-radiance-promising.jpg)
![A carefully selected cocktail of live viruses can diminish Cutibacterium acnes in the skin and reduce inflammation - two aspects linked to blemishes and the skin condition [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/11/10/bacteriophage-therapy-for-acne-and-blemish-prone-skin-promising-says-supplier-biocogent/15926210-4-eng-GB/Bacteriophage-therapy-for-acne-and-blemish-prone-skin-promising-says-supplier-Biocogent.jpg)
![The third Health for Life fund from the venture capitalist will be firmly focused on microbiome innovation, across skin, gut, vaginal and oral categories [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/business-financial/seventure-partners-health-for-life-iii-microbiome-innovation-fund-to-be-released-in-2023-with-300m/15889718-1-eng-GB/Seventure-Partners-Health-for-Life-III-microbiome-innovation-fund-to-be-released-in-2023-with-300m.jpg)
![Kao Corporation says carbonated water improves the efficacy of its curl-loosening technology in shampoo, offering consumers better styling control post-wash [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/10/18/kao-corporation-hair-care-study-shows-carbonated-water-improves-active-ingredient-penetration/15858539-1-eng-GB/Kao-Corporation-hair-care-study-shows-carbonated-water-improves-active-ingredient-penetration.jpg)
![Both men and women take collagen supplements primarily for beauty reasons, way ahead of protein power and joint health [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/08/10/collagen-supplements-for-beauty-still-primary-use-among-women-and-men-finds-trust-transparency-center/15672438-1-eng-GB/Collagen-supplements-for-beauty-still-primary-use-among-women-and-men-finds-Trust-Transparency-Center.jpg)
![Multifunctional ingredients offer strong promise in not only protecting formulas but boosting properties within, including texture and actives, according to the supplier [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/07/26/cosmetic-formulation-promise-in-multifunctionals-for-protection-sensory-and-active-boost-says-symrise/15630039-1-eng-GB/Cosmetic-formulation-promise-in-multifunctionals-for-protection-sensory-and-active-boost-says-Symrise.jpg)
![Phytocosmetics offer plenty of promise due to the antioxidant content within many plants, but extraction and delivery systems need more focus [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/07/19/plant-based-beauty-phytocosmetics-promise-with-extraction-delivery-and-certification-advances/15611273-1-eng-GB/Plant-based-beauty-phytocosmetics-promise-with-extraction-delivery-and-certification-advances.jpg)
![Wild Science Lab is also firmly invested in travel sizes and sampling to help expansion efforts and new consumer uptake [Image: Travel-size Hair Care by Wild Science Lab Facebook]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/07/08/active-beauty-startup-wild-science-lab-eyes-middle-east-expansion-and-ingredient-innovation/15584300-1-eng-GB/Active-beauty-startup-Wild-Science-Lab-eyes-Middle-East-expansion-and-ingredient-innovation.jpg)
![Fuss Pot has kickstarted the launch phase with its hemp-based 'ageless' range for ageing skin concerns [Image: Fuss Pot Facebook]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/brand-innovation/cbd-hemp-skin-care-brand-fuss-pot-launches-in-france-and-eyes-european-expansion/15575564-1-eng-GB/CBD-hemp-skin-care-brand-Fuss-Pot-launches-in-France-and-eyes-European-expansion.jpg)
![Biotechnology can be leveraged for plenty of beauty applications, from creating new molecules through to improving existing processes [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/06/03/biotech-beauty-holds-huge-promise-to-create-new-molecules-and-improve-processes-says-givaudan-active-beauty/15471964-1-eng-GB/Biotech-beauty-holds-huge-promise-to-create-new-molecules-and-improve-processes-says-Givaudan-Active-Beauty.jpg)
![Esho currently offers four 'hero' lip care products targeting hydration, lip volume, treatment and maintenance [Image: ESHO]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/02/25/dr-esho-lip-care-range-launching-on-lookfantastic-and-asos-with-global-expansion-and-npd-planned-for-2022/13274272-1-eng-GB/Dr-Esho-lip-care-range-launching-on-Lookfantastic-and-ASOS-with-global-expansion-and-NPD-planned-for-2022.png)
![L'Oréal's Luxe division performed especially well, with 'remarkable success' in fragrances, according to the company's CEO [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2022/02/10/l-oreal-2021-full-year-results-shows-net-profit-up-29-sales-up-15-in-historic-year/13231286-1-eng-GB/L-Oreal-2021-full-year-results-shows-net-profit-up-29-sales-up-15-in-historic-year.jpg)
![Research institutions, suppliers and manufacturers worldwide are investing time into better understanding the active power of fruit, plant and herbal ingredients [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/headlines/formulation-science/beauty-supplement-ingredient-science-and-studies-on-fruits-tree-extracts-plants-and-herbals-promising/13008209-1-eng-GB/Beauty-supplement-ingredient-science-and-studies-on-fruits-tree-extracts-plants-and-herbals-promising.jpg)
![Solyph eyes growing opportunities in active beauty segment. [Solyph]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/brand-innovation/active-beauty-brand-solyph-spurred-to-expand-business-in-light-of-growing-opportunities-in-health-and-wellness/12944447-1-eng-GB/Active-beauty-brand-Solyph-spurred-to-expand-business-in-light-of-growing-opportunities-in-health-and-wellness.png)
![Deciem-owned NIOD offers a range of high-end serums, masks, sprays and emulsions designed to improve skin health with science [Image: Deciem/NIOD]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/08/27/deciem-s-niod-expands-further-into-france-to-chase-the-ordinary-s-insatiable-growth/12772263-1-eng-GB/Deciem-s-NIOD-expands-further-into-France-to-chase-The-Ordinary-s-insatiable-growth.jpg)
![The immunity concept in beauty holds huge potential across topicals and ingestibles, with some clear pathways available to move successfully forward [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/07/01/immunity-and-beauty-need-science-and-ingredient-innovation-say-experts-during-cosmeticsdesign-webinar/12613937-4-eng-GB/Immunity-and-beauty-need-science-and-ingredient-innovation-say-experts-during-CosmeticsDesign-webinar.jpg)
![We dive into our most-read stories on formulation and science. [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/wrbm_tiny/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/skin-science-latest-stories-on-cosmetics-science-and-formulation/17334719-1-eng-GB/Skin-science-Latest-stories-on-cosmetics-science-and-formulation.jpg)
![Shopee says Vietnam has become a key market for K-beauty brands. [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/wrbm_tiny/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/market-trends/shopee-k-beauty-orders-to-vietnam-increase-more-than-five-fold-in-the-last-three-years/17319014-1-eng-GB/Shopee-K-beauty-orders-to-Vietnam-increase-more-than-five-fold-in-the-last-three-years.jpg)
![[Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/wrbm_tiny/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/chinese-researchers-identify-igf2-in-oral-mucosa-as-key-factor-for-scarless-wound-healing/17328122-1-eng-GB/Chinese-researchers-identify-IGF2-in-oral-mucosa-as-key-factor-for-scarless-wound-healing.jpg)
![Th recent trend developments in the APAC beauty market. [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/wrbm_tiny/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/market-trends/what-s-trending-top-stories-on-apac-beauty-market-and-consumer-insights2/17319701-1-eng-GB/What-s-trending-Top-stories-on-APAC-beauty-market-and-consumer-insights.jpg)
![Native Extracts is seeking opportunities to work with China beauty brands. [Getty Images]](/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/wrbm_tiny/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/article/2024/04/11/native-extracts-aims-to-collaborate-with-c-beauty-brands-with-advanced-chinese-botanicals/17318852-1-eng-GB/Native-Extracts-aims-to-collaborate-with-C-beauty-brands-with-advanced-Chinese-botanicals.jpg)
