UV-mediated oxidative stress can lead to the carbonylation of proteins in the stratum corneum, which according to Jan Dekker and its Japanese partner Maruzen Pharmaceuticals, can lead to decreased skin transparency.
The extract of the silver vine fruit can help decrease the carbonylation of these proteins, thereby leading to improved skin translucency, explained the Netherlands-headquartered company.
A clinical test of the ingredient showed an overall improvement in the average translucency index of the skin of 14 subjects, the company claims.
Fourteen subjects applied a silver vine extract-containing product twice daily for one month to one cheek, applying a placebo essence to the other. According to the company after one month of application, the translucency index of those in the treatment group improved, the colour of the skin was brighter and skin roughness was improved.
In addition, carbonylation of the proteins in the stratum corneum was induced and the effect of the extract was measured.
With the extract at a 2 per cent concentration, carbonylation was almost completely inhibited, the company claimed.
Secondary skin whitening characteristics
Secondary actions of the extract include inhibition of melanin synthesis, although corporate communications manager Kelly Schockman explained that this is not the primary function of the ingredient.
“It could be used as a skin whitening ingredient but this is not a major activity. For this reason we would recommended associating it with another whitening ingredient,” she told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
Although the market for skin translucency is more advanced in Asia than in other regions, Schockman was confident the ingredient would be popular in the US and Europe.
“Even if the Asian market, and especially Japan, is more sensitive to this kind of claim – the trend already exists in Japan – it is also interesting for the US and Europe as skin translucency loss is a direct age indicator,” she said.
The ingredient was launched onto the European market at the in-cosmetics show in Paris last month.