Extracted from citrus fruits and based on liposomal encapsulated citroflavonoids, the ingredient brightens skin tone, fades age spots and increases overall skin luminosity by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, according to Cosmetochem.
Dr Jane Tiedtke, Head of Marketing at Cosmetochem told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com that the ingredient is “plant-derived, safe” with “effective in vitro and in vivo supporting claims data”.
Anti-ageing and brightening
While the new ingredient will target demand for skin lightening products which remains high in Asia, its effects are primarily intended to prolong the ‘youthful appearance of skin’ which Cosmetochem claims is related not only to the absence of wrinkles but also to skin radiance, skin tone and the absence of skin spots.
Tiedtke added that the ingredient will therefore be popular for “both anti-ageing products where the evening out of skin tone and the fading of age-spots is a key target and also the Asian market for brightening skin tone”.
Results obtained from Cosmetochem’s study into the in vitro activity of Citrolumine 8 were said to have demonstrated a reduction in the activity of tyrosinase, which was extracted from normal human epidermal myocytes (NHEM).
Tyrosinase is an enzyme involved in the production of melanin and is targeted by many skin whitening ingredients in an attempt to reduce pigment production.
Cosmetochem’s in vivo tests involved a two month evaluation of the brightening and anti-ageing effects of one per cent Citrolumine 8 in a cosmetic lotion on the skin of nine Caucasian and six Asian female volunteers.
Fifty six days after the lotion had been applied twice daily to volunteers’ faces and backs of hands, the level of lightening of age spots and brightening of skin tone was measured using high resolution imaging studies and a Skin Pigment Analyzer SPA99, or a Chromameter CR300, for Caucasian and Asian volunteers respectively.
Lightening effect on Caucasian age spots and skin tone
Cosmetochem’s results are said to demonstrate that Citrolumine 8 had a significant lightening effect on the age spots of the face and backs of hands of the Caucasian volunteers, as well a brightening effect on their facial skin tone.
Preliminary results for Asian volunteers showed significant brightening of external forearm skin although results for facial skin and lightening of age spots were not disclosed.
“Our primary target was to look at the effect on the fading of age spots and effect on skin tone of Caucasian skin” said Tiedtke. She added that the literature has shown Citroflavonoids to be “potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents, properties which are also of great interest in skin care.”
Cosmetochem will be launching Citrolumine 8 at the exhibition and conference ‘in-cosmetics Asia’ in Bangkok this 2-4 November.