Neutralizing ingredient for hair care has performance benefits, says Angus

The ingredient, AMP-Ultra PC was originally launched back in 2005 as a way for formulators to comply with the pH requirements of various regulations, but Angus Chemical, part of the Dow Chemical Company, claims new tests highlight its other performance benefits.

“We have recently implemented protocols well known in the literature and industry to be able to comprehensively differentiate AMP from other neutralizers offered in personal care,”​ Angus’ global marketing manager Liam Doherty told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.

According to the company, the new tests help illustrate how the neutralizing amine can help retain curls and has lower build up when included in hair spray formulations.

Better curl retention ​

Using a high humidity curl retention test, curls were made with six percent polymer solution and with different neutralizers. The company tested, how well the curls were maintained over a 24 hours period at 30 degrees Celsius and 90 percent humidity.

The curl test showed more curl droop from polymers neutralized with triisopropanolamine and triethanolamine than with AMP Ultra PC, the company claimed.

A second test was performed in order to highlight the washability of the hair following the application of a hair spray containing AMP Ultra PC.

Describing the test, Doherty said: “The product is applied to the hair tresses, allowed to dry, and then washed. This cycle was repeated eight times. This allows us to test if a hairspray can be washed off or it builds-up on the hair.”​

Doherty explained that consumers prefer a clean hair feel and any perceived build up after several days is seen as negative.

The tests showed lower build up when AMP Ultra PC was used as a neutralizer than when using other neutralizers, Doherty claimed.

Currently the company is showcasing the ingredient at the PCHi show in Shanghai, and Doherty explained that the Greater China was one of several important markets for Angus Chemical.