World’s first cosmetic ingredient extracted from soybean

By Simon Pitman

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Skin

Japanese ingredients provider Toyobo says it has developed a technology that creates an extract rich in polyamine derived from soybean germ for the anti-aging market.

Called PhytoPolamine-S, the company recently put the ingredient out in the market as a multi-purpose moisturizing and anti-aging ingredient targeting the skin care category.

The polyamine contained in the extract refers to an amino group of straight-chained aliphatic compounds, which includes putrescine, spermidine and and spermine, compounds that all play a crucial role in supporting the structure of skin cells.

Polyamines stablize skin cell membranes

Polyamines stabilize cell membranes by promoting the synthesis of nucleic acid and proteins, enzyme activation, as well as promoting cell division, to help maintain the cell structure, in turn preventing its demise and the on-set of the skin aging process.

This is because polyamines are found in large amounts in human skin and are believed to make up a significant part in the formation of the skin barrier itself, as well as protecting it from ultraviolet rays.

Polyamines have been increasingly used in nutritional food ingredients as they have been linked to extended life spans and improved health, but until now the compound has proved less widespread for cosmetic applications.

Extended life of fruit and flowers

As part of its research, Toyobo discovered that polyamines improve plant yields and resistance to environmental stress, while, relevant to the anti-aging category, realizing that they also working to prolong the life of fruit and flowers.

Further research pin-pointed that polyamines are in abundance in soybean germ, so the company set about to tailor an extraction process, making it the first company in the world to do so.

Clinical testing on human skin fibroblast has revealed that the extract is effective in stimulating cell activation and promoting the production of collagen, with the company stating that it expects the same kind of performance when the Phytopolyamine ingredient is applied to the skin.

The company says that following its launch, the ingredient has already been adopted by cosmetic players in the domestic Japanese market.

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