Symrise gets approval for a skin brightening ingredient in China

With China being one of the most important skin whitening markets in Asia, brightening ingredients proven to be effective and safe, have a huge potential on the region’s markets. 

According to Symrise, this active inspired from pinosylvin, a natural skin brightening compound occurring in pine has been synthesized and screened for tyrosinase inhibitory activity as well as antioxidant efficacy and has been found to safely improve the appearance of dull complexions and promote clarity and brightness. 

Furthermore, the company says that the efficacy has been tested in vitro, in vivo and ex vivo as well as in a clinical study with Asian subjects showing that 0.5 percent of SymWhite is a more effective solution for brighter skin than 1.0 percent kojic acid.

"We are really pleased that the SFDA has approved our active component in China. Our customers that are active on the Asian market can now develop effective products that fulfill the wish for an even and radiant skin and that give care and protection at the same time, ​” says Dr. Gabriele Vielhaber, senior Vice President of the Global Business Unit Cosmetic Ingredients.

Challenges ​

Global cosmetic companies require SFDA approval before introducing any new cosmetic raw materials to its portfolio and Symrise says in this instance, despite the level of difficulty, the registration was extremely encouraging to demonstrate its 'Life Essential' vision and leadership ambitions.

"We started our first submission in March 2009, followed by providing a series of additional testing reports, documents and explanations, etc.  So altogether it has taken about three and a half years to get the ultimate approval by the end of 2012, which is quite significant,​" reveals Ms. Wu Lan Symrise ASPAC Regulatory Affairs Director.

Advice on how best to approach this process​

The regulatory affairs director further pinpoints the challenges this type of process faces, in a bid to help other companies improve their efficiency whilst attempting to register a new cosmetic ingredient in China.

She mentions that convincing the safety of a product in China within a short turn around time, is under all kinds of potential application conditions, quite challenging; "I​ recommend providing documents as complete as possible at one time – for the first submission and also for answering the notices, this could facilitate experts to get a global view and to draw a conclusion within one commission; if one point has to be discussed in several commissions, it’s difficult to guarantee the consistency​."