Asia in Focus

Whitening product innovation sees new focus on melanogenesis

By Michelle Yeomans

- Last updated on GMT

Whitening product innovation sees new focus on melanogenesis

Related tags Melanin

This month we are looking at innovation in whitening products, which represented around 30% of total skin care business in 2014. While there are no new molecules to boast of, there is however, new stories on melanogenesis, according to our AP expert. 

According to Florence Bernardin, the CEO of 'Information & Inspiration', an agency that specializes in all that is the cosmetics industry in Asia, ‘whitening’ may not be the right name for a product category which focuses on perfect even skin tone rather than trying to get Caucasian like pale skin. 

"This rather new category is not yet clearly understood by consumers​," she tells this publication.

"Obtaining all the certifications can be very long and difficult therefore cosmetics brands have extended the whitening category to the so called 'brightening' which enhance skin radiance and evenness," s​he adds.

What’s new in terms of product launches in 2014:

  • No new molecules ​but melanogenesis has given examples of how to better slow down melanin formation thanks to new, original and even story telling approaches from chronic inflammations that accelerate pigmentation (Chanel) to horizontal or fan shape spreading of the melanin through melanocytes and affects skin translucency (Dior) or melanosome structure made of several layers like 'bones' on which melanin pigment deposit and that can causes stubborn spot (Astalift). 
  • Skin dullness remains the key concern in addition to spots because of glycation consequences on skin tone but also because of an ideal image of skin that could reflect light like crystal or snow. Shiseido has well expressed this concept on the Chinese market with the launch of 'White Lucent Total Brightening Serum', which claims to achieve five different dimensions of whiteness.
  • Whitening and moisture are also key for translucency but also the fundamental element of skin health and radiance. Clinique claims to have launched the first moisturizing lotion to even out the skin tone, texture and even skin radiance or moisturizing ability. Best seller SKII Cellumination Aura Essence formula has been revised this year to provide White aura, diamond white like skin by moisturizing and skin texture improving. 

Asia in Focus - bringing you all the latest from the region

Asia in Focus is a series that hones in on the segments offering the most opportunities for the industry.

Now in its seventh edition, this series looks at how best to enter Asia's markets and hones in on specific consumer trends and behavioural pattern breakdowns with our experts on the ground, in the region.

Florence Bernardin

Florence Bernardin is the CEO of 'Information & Inspiration', an agency that specialises in all that is the cosmetics industry in Asia, and will be back on the region next month reporting on what matters.

If you would like to see our expert look into specific topics on their next trip, please contact us via the editor button below for consideration.

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