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CIDP part 2: Industry is only at the “beginning of the anti-pollution ‘buzz’”

By Natasha Spencer

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Cosmetics, Skin

CIDP part 2: Industry is only at the “beginning of the anti-pollution ‘buzz’”
Following the release of its anti-pollution and blue light study protocols earlier this year, along with its newly-launched, ex vivo model, Véronique Newton, Preclinical Laboratory Manager, CIDP, and Jessen Curpen, Biophysics Manager and Head of Clinical Study Design, CIDP, explained their potential impact on the industry.

CIDP unveiled its study protocol for substantiating anti-pollution claims on cosmetic products earlier this year.

Following the creation of its protocol, the company has developed an ex vivo model to support its anti-pollution and blue light claim substantiation protocols.

1. How does your new ex vivo model work?

Targeting cosmetics manufacturers, the ex vivo model is a full thickness human skin obtained from surgical waste that allows experiments to be conducted in conditions close to the in vivo model.

As skin explants contain all cell types resident in the skin, it is capable of exerting physiological effects on neighbouring cells, hence reproducing the same mechanisms that are activated in the different cell layers of the human skin.

This enables CIDP researchers to closely monitor the mechanism underlying the reaction pathway, test the effects of pollution on the skin, and to determine the efficacy of active ingredients and finished products, either topically, or directly in the culture medium.

2. What problem is CIDP aiming to solve with its new ex vivo model?

Our innovative spirit is what spurred us to create a model that addresses our clients’ needs. Some cosmetics and personal care manufacturers prefer not having to involve human volunteers in tests.

With ex vivo tests, companies can test their products in labs, without the need to recruit volunteers. It is a safer, low-risk testing model that enables our researchers to scientifically identify all the mechanisms that are activated during exposure to pollution, or after product treatment.

3. Why is it required now within the cosmetics and personal care industry?

Cosmetic products with the 'anti-pollution' claim are becoming more prevalent. The number of consumers aware of the negative impact pollutants has on their skin are increasing, and they are keen on protecting themselves.

Scientists in the field of cosmetology and dermatology generally concur that pollution is the second precursor of extrinsic skin ageing, right after UV.

However, there is no standard protocol to evaluate the efficacy of anti-pollution products till date, which is why CIDP embarked on developing novel protocols to substantiate the anti-pollution claim.

4. How do your recent anti-pollution and blue light study protocols contribute to the skin care segment’s development?

To address manufacturers’ needs for anti-pollution claims substantiation, CIDP developed in vivo and ex vivo standard protocols that objectively evaluate skin exposure to Ozone, cigarette smoke, and PM 2.5.

This helps manufacturers demonstrate the effects that their cosmetic products have against these pollutants – either in preventing pollutants from adhering to the skin surface, removing pollutants from the skin or in reducing the detrimental impact of pollutants while simultaneously regenerating the skin.

Specific pollution biomarkers are identified and monitored, to show their evolution in treated vs non-treated skin when exposed to pollutants.

Moreover, our protocol is also extended to conduct tests on human volunteers in real polluted cities, where we assess efficacy with biophysical evaluation – such as skin hydration, Trans-Epidermal Water Loss, skin elasticity, wrinkles, and skin pigmentation.

In blue light protection claims substantiation, cosmetic products are tested for their photoprotective effects against blue light-induced pigmentation.

For decades, the personal care industry has tested sunscreens for their efficacy in protecting the skin against UVA and UVB components of sunlight. However, recent research has shown that blue light (400 – 470 nm) causes significant cutaneous pigmentation effects.

5. Do you think APAC consumers are calling out for this knowledge and awareness?

The demand for anti-pollution products is increasing amongst APAC consumers, and that is driving the cosmetics and personal care industry to come up with anti-pollution protocols and models.

Standardised protocols need to be set in place to objectively substantiate anti-pollution claims. Manufacturers can do so by demonstrating the effect of pollution on the skin, and the efficacy of cosmetic products in protecting the skin against the negative impact of pollution.

6. What does the future of anti-pollution and anti-ageing innovation technologies have in store?

We believe that the industry is at the beginning of the anti-pollution ‘buzz’. At this initial stage, we are still trying to understand the different complex mechanisms of pollution’s effects on the skin. Thereafter, various laboratories will likely introduce innovative ingredients that can reduce the impact of pollution on the skin.

Since the launch of our claims substantiation standard protocols, we have received many requests from cosmetics manufacturers to conduct studies for them. Interest in such robust study designs is increasing, and we believe more cosmetic manufacturers will adopt such protocols.

Based on recent market trends, we expect to see even more anti-pollution, anti-ageing innovations on the market in the next 12 or so months.

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