Brand Profile - Part 1

An active win for Azelis

By Natasha Spencer

- Last updated on GMT

An active win for Azelis
Following its recent win at the PCHi awards in China — its fourth event accolade— we spoke to Jane Zhang, Head of Personal Care in China, Azelis to discuss the innovation and technology behind its active ingredient Tagra CelluCaps C.

Distributor of speciality chemicals and ingredients, Azelis, celebrated its 2018 Fountain Award for Personal Care and Cosmetics Innovation at PCHi exhibition in Shanghai, China.

1. How did you find the recent PCHi event in Shanghai?

PCHi offered great networking opportunities, with key customers coming to visit us. We were thrilled to see that Tagra CelluCaps C pleased the PCHi judges and won the 2018 Fountain Award for Personal Care and Cosmetics Innovation.

PCHi places innovation at the heart of the show and aims to reward the expertise of participating companies, so it is an honour to win the Fountain Award for Innovation for the fourth time. It is a true testament to the quality of our teams and the innovative solutions they are able to offer to the market time after time.

2. Can you talk me through your active ingredient Tagra CelluCaps C?

For decades, vitamin C has been a popular ingredient in the cosmetic industry due to its ability to enhance uniform skin complexion and fight wrinkles.

Vitamin C has been proven to increase cell renewal, reduce the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles and prevent moisture loss. Vitamin C is well known for its excellent brightening properties stemming from its ability to inhibit melanogenesis, suppress intracellular Tyrosinase and prevent transporting of melanin to the upper dermis (keratinocytes).

Nevertheless, vitamin C, and its derivatives can be a challenge to formulate with, since it can easily get oxidised, leading to a loss of activity.

CelluCap C is Tagra’s innovative and effective solution to overcome formulation challenges related to Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, a lipophilic derivative of vitamin C.

Cellucap C is a “green” microencapsulation delivery system, loaded with 25% of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, exhibiting an average particle size of ~30 microns and composed from a cellulose-based polymer.

3. What is Azelis’ Release on Demand (RND) technology?

CelluCap C is employing Tagra’s Release on Demand (RND) technology, releasing the potent vitamin C upon application, while rubbing the formulation onto the skin. The polymeric shell collapses, releasing the encapsulated active. Microcapsules break down into invisible particles but still retain some of the core ingredients to continue and deliver over time.

Tagra’s unique delivery system ensures optimal isolation of the Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate resulting in improved stability while overcoming both incompatibilities and discolouration.

CelluCap C whitens the skin, increases cell renewal, reduces the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles and prevents moisture loss. It appears as a non-agglomerate powder which is easily incorporated into the already made base formulation during the last stage of preparation.

4. What is meant by a “green” microencapsulation delivery system?

Recently, the use of "green"​, "renewable"​ and "natural"​ ingredients in cosmetic products has dramatically increased due to environmental awareness. The “green”​ microencapsulation delivery system is made from cellulose-based polymers, based on Tagra's unique Release on Demand (RND) technology.

5. What are its applications?

Compatible with all types of cosmetic formulations without any pH limitations and no stabilisers or special equipment required, CelluCap C range complies with all regulatory requirements worldwide.

Using the encapsulated technology, oil for an example, can be eliminated from formulations leading for an advantages of which are not expressed only by higher stability, better efficacy, easy spreadability onto the skin and light feel on the skin, but also by much higher cost-effective process, easier manufacturing process, less production time, less energy wasting and avoiding of surfactants. The cleaning of the apparatus is also made easier, as there are no oily materials that need to be removed by hot water and detergents.

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