Revealed: The beauty innovations that are helping to combat urban stress

By Amanda Lim contact

- Last updated on GMT

Revealed: The beauty innovations that are helping to combat urban stress
Blue light, stress and pollution were among the skin stressors under scrutiny at in-Cosmetics Asia, where companies showcased the latest innovations to combat the effects of urban living.

New research is now showing that pollution only the tip of the iceberg of factors that impact the fight against premature aging.

From UV Light to Blue Light

According to studies conducted by Lonza, 60% of people spend more than six hours a day in front of a digital device, exposing themselves to blue light waves which contributes to skin ageing.

“The average millennial spends 18 hours a day on their devices—  that ages skin quicker than walking outside without sun protection,”​ said Jennifer Clancy, Senior Director of Global Marketing of Lonza.

With blue light protection emerging as a trend, Lonza developed ScreenLight Block, which helps defend skin against the visible effects of blue light, UV light and pollution. “It’s truly a three-dimensional defensive shield [that protects] your skin from much more than just blue light,”​ said Clancy.

The company held clinical trials with over 30 female volunteers and saw significant results after 28 days. Not only did they witness a reduction in fine lines, winkles and dark spots, the test showed that the new technology was capable of preventing increase in melanin production, and protected skin from the effects of visible light exposure.

What makes ScreenLight Block interesting, said Clancy, is its flexibility. “It’s an oil-based product that can be formulated into really anything, so it’s really interesting that it could be introduced into colour cosmetics like lipsticks.”

Futhermore, Clancy sees ScreenLight Block as a new way to market brightening products to Asian consumers. “Brightening is a stale word in the industry, this is a new and innovative way to talk to the consumer.”

“Specifically in the Asian markets, they are looking for brightening and this is the next generation of brightening – with all the qualifications that go even further.”

De-stressing skin

Keeping in line with the trend of wellness and self-care in beauty, DSM showcased BEL-EVEN, a solution designed by the company to counteract the damaging effects of stress on the skin.

“Stress is a key issue for consumers. Large populations have moved to the cities and people have hectic lifestyles which means more stress caused by urban living,”​ said Yusuke Saito, Regional Director, DSM Personal Care & Aromas, Asia Pacific.

While pollution is “always an issue”​ for consumers, elaborated Saito, factors such as blue light, urban living cause stress on the skin, which triggers the release of cortisol and can accelerate visible signs of aging.

With BEL-EVEN, DSM provides anti-stress care to rebalance the effects of a hectic urban lifestyle. The ingredient was tested in vivo for three months of 30 female participants aged 50 to 56 years.

The company found that just 1% of BEL-EVEN improved the elasticity and density of skin after 12 weeks. BEL-EVEN was also tested against the changing weather conditions in Switzerland and was found to effectively protect skin against external stress factors.

Additionally, the company launched ALPAFLOR SCUTELLARIA at in-Cosmetics Asia, a certified organic, fair-trade and Halal product, produced from the rare Alpine plant Scutellaria alpina.

Part of DSM’s range of organic bioactives, the natural extract acts as an anti-stress and soothing agent for the skin by inducing the production of beta-endorphin and increasing lipid synthesis.

Regulating the rhythm

Taking inspiration from a Nobel Prize-winning discovery, Clariant showcased B-Circadin, an active ingredient that fights the effects of skin damage caused by disruptions to the skin’s circadian rhythm.

“This active ingredient is key to us and consumers, because it tackles well-being which is an area we want to address. We believe that by bringing high quality actives, the ultimate benefit is that consumers will feel better,”​ said Alexandre Lapeyre, Clariant’s Global Technical Marketing Manager of Active Ingredients.

Other than hectic lifestyles, Lapeyre said that the use of digital devices and the exposure to blue light deregulates the individual’s circadian rhythm. With B-Circadin, the irregularity in the rhythm can be resynchronise.

Created in partnership with BioSpectrum, B-Circadin, is extracted from the Lespedeza Capitata, a plant from South Korea where it is used for its medicinal properties. “This plant is very powerful because it helps preserve your circadian rhythm,” ​said Lapeyre.

Clariant performed two clinical studies in order to determine the effectiveness of B-Circadin. “The product showed a very fast efficacy, after only four days we saw results,” ​said Lapeyre. “There was reduction in skin fatigue, signs around the eyes mainly.”

After one and four weeks, skin condition continued to improve, an effect noticed by volunteers, added Lapeyre.

In addition to B-Circadin, Clariant has decided to relaunch BioDTox because of its efficacy and efficiency in detoxification, said Lapeyre.

Hoping to glean more scientific data on the product and prove its effectiveness, Clariant conducted a clinical evaluation using a rinse-off product that contained BioDTox.

“Basically we asked people to walk around the streets for seven hours in a polluted city in China, then they used our rinse-off product containing the active ingredient,” ​explained Lapeyre. “After, they could see that the complexion was better just after one single test and the pollutants were removed.”

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