Cargill goes back-to-basics with nature-derived beauty system

In order to design the new beauty system, Cargill conducted several consumer studies and identified six consumer profiles to better understand and identify future trends in the market.

“We did a consumer segmentation based on their green and ethical needs to distinguish six archetypes. One is driven by personal relationships, some are more energy-driven, some people are concerned about the traceability, or some have a more luxury mindset,” ​explain Tony Jaillot, general manager of Cargill Beauty.

Based on this consumer research, the company produced six different formulations with claims, positioning and texture that would resonate specifically with each archetype.

Easy as 1, 2, 3

The entire system is only made up of only three key ingredients: Actigum VSX 20, Lecithin Emultop Velvet IP and the rapeseed oil Bota Valley 75.

With the desire to create simple formulations, Cargill began by perfecting one formulation with these ingredients before “stretching into different sensory dimensions”, ​such as gels, serums and creams. “This is great because with a few ingredients, we expanded into sensory profiles that are very different,” ​said Jaillot.

Cargill deliberately simplified the formula in response to the market trends said Jaillot. “This is answering the need for simple formulations that are fully natural.”​

He elaborated, “The simpler, the more [consumers] can relate to the nature of the ingredients, the more they can understand. If it’s just sunflower oil and not a complicated chemical ester, that’s better, because there’s more and more concern to understand what you eat, drink and what you put on your skin.”​

Clean and green biotech

With the Beauty’s System 1.0, Cargill also showcased PhytoSpherix by Mirexus, a bioactive ingredient created by a Canadian biotech company Cargill has partnered with. PhytoSpherix is produced through a patented green water-based process from non-genetically modified sweet corn with COSMOS and ECOCERT approval.

The pluri-functional glycogen active is used in Cargill’s Radiant Pearl Serum formula, which the company tested in US, Europe and Asia to evaluate how different skins will respond to the product.

This led them to position the Radiant Pearl Serum towards Asian consumers as a brightening treatment as it showed positive results in that area.

Going back to naturals

Jaillot noted that Asian consumers are increasingly looking for natural, ethical products and the demand is rising quickly. “When I came [to in-Cosmetics Asia] couple of years ago, natural and sustainable, well it wasn’t a big thing,”​ he said. “Even compared to last year, I see much more booths and conferences about naturals. It’s still smaller than US or Europe, but it will be a big thing in the next years.”​

This, Jaillot added, is boosted by the traditionally natural roots in Asia. “When you look at traditional Chinese medicine or Indian Ayurveda, there’s thousands of years of experience in naturals. It’s only recently we went to synthetics, so going back to naturals is only natural in Asia.”​