Skin Science: Our top stories on cosmetic formulation and science

1 – Cracking collagen: Kewpie’s new egg-based cosmetic ingredient promises to turn back time

Japanese company Kewpie has launched a brand new collagen-boosting ingredient extracted from eggshell membranes.​

Its fine chemicals division launched EMlastic at CITE Japan in May and is optimistic about its prospects locally and in overseas markets.

The ingredient acts to increase fibroblasts that produce hyaluronic acid and the collagen necessary to maintain skin firmness.

Yayoi Matsushita, marketing, fine chemicals division of Kewpie explained that EMlastic’s main purpose was to promote the production of type-III collagen, also known as ‘baby collagen’, as it is most abundant in skin during babyhood.

“It’s what makes baby skin so plump and supple. Then as we age, type-III collagen decreases,” ​explained Matsushita.

2 – Queen of fruits: Thai cosmetics firm sees vast potential for mangosteen extract

Thai firm Quality Plus believes it has yet to fully unlock the potential of the mangosteen fruit and its purified xanthone extract for cosmetic use.​

Quality Plus collaborated with Kasetsart University to research the active ingredients derived from mangosteen peels.

They found that the purified xanthone from the peels has potent cosmetic properties.

“Purified xanthone from mangosteen is a really special ingredient,” ​said Wuttipong Panitsettakorn, managing director of Quality Plus. “It has been found to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial properties.”​

According to Panitsettakorn, the cosmetic industry utilises crude mangosteen extract that is inferior to purified xanthone.

“Some products use the crude extract, but the high value comes from its purified state.”​

3 – ‘Small sample size, questionable methodology’: Australian scientists react to sunscreen toxic absorption study

The results of a recent US Food and Drug Administration study into the toxic absorption of certain active ingredients in sunscreen have hit a nerve with academics​ in Australia.

Australia, which has taken the use of sunscreen extremely seriously for generations, did not feature in the research. Its academics, however, have reacted strongly to it, with some pointing to some significant flaws.

The paper, published in JAMA on May 6, recommended that active ingredients in sunscreen that are absorbed into the bloodstream above a certain level should undergo toxicology testing.

The FDA researchers had been seeking to determine bloodstream concentrations of four active ingredients. They looked at avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene and ecamsule in four sunscreens applied four times per day for four days.

4 – Skin health probiotics “thriving market full of opportunity to grow”, new report finds

A new report into the market potential for skin microbiota-related products has revealed that digitisation will be the biggest force shaping skinbiotics in the coming years​.

Discover the full report, Skinbiotics: Probiotics for skin health, eczema, allergies & more​, from Lumina Intelligence here.

The report also observed that 61% of probiotic cosmetics have at least one clean label claim, making clear the link between ‘clean beauty’ and the skin microbiome trends.

“The category benefits from being widely perceived as ‘natural’, and 67% of probiotic cosmetics boast of their clean-label and/or vegetarian and free-from status. Within clean label, ‘no parabens’ is the most prevalent claim,”​ the report’s author, Shane Starling, observes.

In this Editor’s Spotlight, we take a look at some the key facts and figures in an exclusive preview of the new repot.

The report’s sample size covered 156 probiotic cosmetics captured in 20 researched countries between December 2017-2018.

5 – Himalaya doubles down on Dubai R&D centre to drive Ayurveda advances

Indian ayurvedic cosmetics, personal care and drugs manufacturer Himalaya will launch a global research center​ in Dubai in 2021.

The company has chosen Dubai Science Park, one of the city’s free zones that allow foreign direct investment without the need for a local partner, for the site. When it opens, it will support Himalaya’s operations across the Gulf.

The company markets over 300 cosmetics, nutritional supplements, herbal medicines and pharmaceutical-grade ayurvedic products in more than 90 countries.

Himalaya’s core business centers on research and manufacturing of pharmaceutical and personal care products for health-conscious consumers. It has already operated a lab complex in Dubai since 2013 for product development, quality control and standardisation. These will also serve priority areas for the new facility.

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