Skin Science: Our top stories on cosmetic formulation and science

1 – Japan’s hair care trends: Kao taps into demand for anti-ageing conditioners and more mild shampoos

Kao’s chemical division has created two new hair care solutions, which it believes taps into two of the most pressing demands from Japanese consumers​ – namely products with anti-ageing benefits and more mild properties.

Moe Yoshizawa, chemical business global, pharmaceuticals and toiletries, Kao Corporation, told CosmeticsDesign-Asia that its clients are increasingly asking for ingredients that can fulfil the demands of the anti-ageing hair care market.

Quartamin E-80K launched 10 years ago as a replacement for behentrimonium chloride (BTAC) but Kao’s new research shows that it is an effective ingredient for anti-ageing hair conditioner.

Yoshizawa explained that creating an anti-ageing hair conditioner could be complicated. “To make this hair conditioner, volume and smoothness is both needed, but it’s hard to fulfil both criteria because, for example, if you have smoothness, there is less volume.”​

2 – Not just another rose extract: Ashland’s targets luxury market with high-performing Rosaliss

Ashland is looking to target the luxury cosmetics market with Rosaliss, a new ingredien​t inspired by the precious rosa centifolia flower.

 “What is exceptional about this rose is that the flower can maintain its colour and beauty regardless of environmental conditions like drought, wind, sun… It contains within itself the ability to resist and maintain its exceptional beauty beyond the different environmental elements​,” said Neil Astles, global marketing manager of Ashland.

While there are many rose extracts on the market, Astles explained that creating Rosaliss required Ashland’s proprietary technology called PSR (Plant small RNA) technology, which he described as ‘green chemistry’.​

3 – Assessing ‘invisible’ damage: Kao develops a new method to quantify UV skin damage

Japanese firm Kao Corporation claims to have found a way to evaluate​ UV-induced skin damage by measuring ultraweak photons emitted from the body called biophotons.

According to the company’s Biological Science Research Division, the new evaluation method can assess skin damage one to three minutes after ultraviolet (UV) exposure.

Previously, UV damage was measured by assessing skin redness, or erythema, about a day after exposure to UV radiation.

“This novel method has the potential to become an advanced tool for detecting unintended skin damage and ultimately for developing more efficient technologies to protect the skin against UV,”​ said the company in a statement.

4 – Queen of fruits: Thai cosmetics firm sees vast potential for mangosteen extract

Thai firm Quality Plus believes it has yet to fully unlock the potential of the mangosteen fruit and its purified xanthone extract for cosmetic use.​

Quality Plus collaborated with Kasetsart University to research the active ingredients derived from mangosteen peels.

They found that the purified xanthone from the peels has potent cosmetic properties.

“Purified xanthone from mangosteen is a really special ingredient,”​ said Wuttipong Panitsettakorn, managing director of Quality Plus. “It has been found to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial properties.”​

5 – The future is natural: Sensient advances natural goals with new range of red pigments

Sensient has developed four new all-natural red pigments made from superfoods,​ with the firm showcasing a range of lip products at this week’s in-Cosmetics Korea exhibition.

Virginie Boulier, marketing and application manager of Sensient, believes that these new natural pigments are a step forward from its range of food-grade pigments, which are not all-natural.

She elaborated that creating natural pigments can be complicated.

“To work with natural ingredients, especially for colour, is very difficult. You have to relearn things. You cannot use the same industrial tools or processes. This makes it a little bit complicated.”​

However, Boulier added that working around the complications ​were necessary.