Smashed avocado: French firm develops eye care active from by-product

By Kacey Culliney contact

- Last updated on GMT

Laboratoires Expanscience says use of by-products is 'extremely crucial' for a sustainable future in cosmetics (Getty Images)
Laboratoires Expanscience says use of by-products is 'extremely crucial' for a sustainable future in cosmetics (Getty Images)

Related tags: avocado, dermocosmetics, by-product, Sustainability, active beauty

French dermocosmetics firm Laboratoires Expanscience has developed an active ingredient for dark circles and under-eye puffiness using avocado by-product sourced from Peru.

Marking the sixth avocado by-product ingredient in its portfolio, the ‘Number 6’ active like the rest of its avocado ingredients was made from downgraded fruits no longer exportable or sellable on the food market. The ingredient – a concentrate of avocado polyphenols – worked to make eyes appear brighter, acting on microcirculation, pigmentation and swelling and could be used in creams, serums and solid cosmetics, according to Laboratoires Expanscience.

Armelle Le Peniec, director of cosmetic active ingredients at Laboratoires Expanscience, said the ingredient, like any typical active the company developed, took around four years to develop – from research and clinical studies through to final marketing.

Guacamole, animal feed and cosmetics

Le Peniec said the company’s use of avocado by-product fitted into its wider goal of securing “responsible plant supply chains” –​ developing active and quality ingredients without impacting the security or sustainability of supply.

“We use downgraded avocados; it means these are avocados with ‘aesthetic defects’ that can’t be sold in supermarkets, but they can be used for producing guacamole, for example, or for animal feed. They are totally safe to use. We just save them from wastage and that’s the first step of our upcycling process,”​ she said.

The company sourced its avocadoes from “hard to reach valleys”​ in Peru in order to help boost local economies, she said, facilitated through its subsidiary in the country.

“Research, production, sourcing or the use of by-products: for each stage, we seek the lowest possible impact on the environment, but we also seek to create positive impacts on health, the local economy and society etc.”

Asked how important by-product derived ingredients were for a sustainable cosmetics future, Le Peniec said: “This responsible approach is important to us and seems extremely crucial for the future. It is an essential and now unavoidable approach in the beauty industry.”

Avocados and zero waste

Laboratoires Expanscience developed a demonstration formula using its latest avocado ingredient – a solid bar for eye contouring that contained 1-3% of the active. The company also designed two other solid products as part of its ‘zero waste/avocado’ box: a solid shampoo bar and bar for refreshed skin.

Related topics: Formulation & Science, Skin Care

Related news

Related products

show more

Formulating for Clean Beauty

Formulating for Clean Beauty

Elementis | 26-May-2022 | Product Brochure

Water scarcity and water pollution continues to be a concern for the environment. Every year, about 130 tons of microplastic particles from personal care...

RESTORING FACIAL HARMONY

RESTORING FACIAL HARMONY

Lubrizol Life Science | 23-May-2022 | Product Presentation

Telophi™ biotech ingredient is a biotechnological extract that protects telocytes and proliferating epidermal stem cells from psychological stress to preserve...

Caressense™ biofunctional, powering ageless beauty

Caressense™ biofunctional, powering ageless beauty

Ashland Global Holdings Inc | 01-May-2022 | Data Sheet

For the first time, Ashland researchers reveal a natural bioactive that can activate skin’s sensors of touch, the piezos, to release “feel-good” and anti-aging...

Related suppliers

Follow us

Products

View more

Webinars

Indie Pioneers Podcast

Indie Pioneers Podcast