Just peachy: Amorepacific files patent on sebum inhibiting peach sprout and peony extract

By Amanda Lim contact

- Last updated on GMT

Amorepacific has developed an active ingredient which it claims is effective in inhibiting secretion of sebum on the skin. [Getty Images]
Amorepacific has developed an active ingredient which it claims is effective in inhibiting secretion of sebum on the skin. [Getty Images]

Related tags: Science, Amorepacific, Oily skin, Acne

Korean cosmetic company Amorepacific has developed an active ingredient with extracts from peach sprouts and peonies, which it claims is effective in inhibiting and regulating the secretion of sebum on the skin.

By improving the excessive secretion of sebum, the formula can help improve skin problems such as acne or seborrheic dermatitis.

The overproduction of sebum can also lead to denaturation and reduction of collagen fibres and elastic fibres supporting the pore walls. This would reduce skin elasticity, and result in the enlargement of pores.

The existing sebum reducing products in the market are lacking in terms of efficacy, said Amorepacific in the patent. For instance, products that utilise a porous powder that only temporarily absorbs sebum and provide an “insignificant”​ effect.

Two extracts are better than one

In one experiment, it was found that peach sprout extract significantly reduced neutral lipid production level even at a low concentration of 2.5ppm, indicating that it has an excellent effect in inhibiting sebum.

Testing also proved that despite the promotion of sebum secretion, the peony extract reduced neutral lipid production level, while the control group showed an increase in neutral lipid production level.

However, the testing showed that the effect on sebum control was improved further when both extracts were combined.

“The sebum inhibitory effect of the mixed extract of peach sprout and peony was found to be remarkably superior to that of each of the peony extract and the peach sprout extract, indicating that the mixed extract of peach sprout and peony significantly reduces neutral lipid production level and thus has a synergistic effect in inhibiting sebum.”

The peach extract used was drawn out from a young peach plant, which the company chose because they are richer in compounds such as vitamins, proteins, amino acids and minerals than its older counterparts.

“The sprout can be considered as a stem cell of a plant. Unlike animals, plants have the potential for the entire plant body to become stem cells, because plants have only tissues and have not been differentiated into organs…Sprouts are rich in various materials that are needed for growth.”

At the same time, peony extract can help to reduce pore sizes with its astringent properties. It also has anti-ageing properties.

The patent said the peony extract can be obtained from the entire plant, including the roots, stems, leaves and flowers. However, the document highlighted that the roots and flower were particularly excellent for the purposes of inhibiting sebum secretion.

Both extracts were extracted using water as an extraction solvent.

The peach and peony mixed can be used for skin or hair care applications. It can be fashioned into a variety of product formats, including lotions, toners, creams, and essences and even powders.

Furthermore, the patent also covers food applications of the active ingredient, which can take the format of a beverage, food, health supplement or gummies.

WIPO Patent No: US/2021/0275435

Published on: September 9, 2021.

Composition For Inhibiting Sebum Secretion Comprising Peach Sprout Extract

Inventors: Amorepacific Corporation – Se Jin Yoo, Nok Hyun Park, Yu Jin Oh, Hyunwoo Lee and Yong-Jin Kim

Related topics: Formulation & Science, East Asia, Skin Care

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