Delivering results: NZ circular beauty brand Emma Lewisham harnesses two delivery systems for new eye cream
The two delivery systems are the Innovative CoQ10 Complex and Innovative Lipid Complex, said its spokesperson and product development manager Kerry De Villiers.
De Villiers said the two biomedical technology systems could optimise the overall look and well-being of the consumers’ skin as they were designed to enhance the delivery of the 18 active ingredients to target cells.
“Our formulation is special as it is based on the ingredients themselves and the way those ingredients are arranged as a coordinated ingredient system and the way they are delivered to the skin.
“For instance, we use heroes like saccharide isomerate, ribose, and a CoQ10 complex, which are all innovative and efficacious ingredients on their own, but then we understand skin science in a way that lets us combine these with other fantastic ingredients to give a boosted level of support to their action.
“This powerful and considered approach moves beyond the benefit level of the individual ingredient and to the next tier up of how these ingredients work together and work with the body to support an enhanced overall action and skin benefits,” said De Villiers.
The Skin Reset Eye Crème, with a waitlist of more than 5,000 individuals, is a product of two years’ worth of research and development (R&D). The R&D was conducted by founder Lewisham and four scientists at the firm’s manufacturing facility in Auckland.
According to De Villiers, the 18 active ingredients in this eye cream are phytolipid complex, rovisome, saccharide isomerate, aquapront, hyaluronic acid, ribose, sacred Chinese lily, ceramides, summer snowflake, Leontopodium alpinum flower/leaf extract, buddleja extract, organic sunflower oil, glycerin, jojoba esters, organic urumuru butter, Inca Inchi oil (Plukenetia volubilis seed oil), hibiscus extract and vitamin E.
The eye crème is certified carbon positive under the Toitū Envirocare’s Climate Positive Product Certification and 100% circular-designed and refillable through the Emma Lewisham Beauty Circle.
Deeper, better, faster, stronger
The first system, the Innovative CoQ10 Complex, promotes the delivery and efficacy of the named coenzyme. CoQ10s have generally high molecular weight and low water solubility, making them difficult to absorb.
Hence, the CoQ10 is ‘housed’ in a specialised liposome to improve its overall stability in the formulation and help it get absorbed more deeply.
“The complex increases the bioavailability of CoQ10, a well-known antioxidant essential for cellular energy production and antioxidant benefits in the skin. Liposomal vehicles that utilise highly purified phospholipids with a high content of linoleic acids and flexible membranes enable more effective delivery of ingredients into the skin,” she said.
The second system, the Innovative Lipid Complex, combines glycosphingolipids for improved skin barrier protection, hyaluronic acid (HA) for deep hydration and barley extract for an improved overall skin condition.
Ingredients for this system include saccharide isomerate, which imitates the skin’s natural moisturising system and prevents transepidermal water loss due to its small molecular size. Saccharide isomerate is scientifically proven to remain in the epidermis for over 72 hours.
The cosmetic delivery system claims to smooth wrinkles in the short- and long-term due to the registered CERASOME technology used.
“We did not create these (two) delivery systems. The actives used in Emma Lewisham products are created using ingredients that the independent ingredient manufacturers researched and found conclusive evidence that their materials are efficacious,” said De Villiers.
De Villiers sees incredible potential in the eye cream market. Globally, the market was worth over USD$20bn in 2020, and that amount has been growing faster than the skincare market in general.
“And this is expected to continue. This growth is driven increasingly by sustainable formulations as consumers increasingly want to avoid the use of harmful chemicals, particularly around the sensitive eye area,” she said.