‘Trigger the skin microbiome’: Gardenia extract to promote skin regeneration in New Emma Lewisham mask

By Nurul Ain Razali contact

- Last updated on GMT

The Emma Lewisham 'sleep in a mask' could catalyse nocturnal activity and enhance the structure and condition of the skin. [Emma Lewisham]
The Emma Lewisham 'sleep in a mask' could catalyse nocturnal activity and enhance the structure and condition of the skin. [Emma Lewisham]

Related tags: Skin care, microbiome, circular beauty, New zealand

New Zealand circular beauty brand Emma Lewisham is tapping the benefits of gardenia to optimise skin physiology for cellular regeneration overnight.

The brand explained that the ingredient, extracted from Gardenia jasminoides​, triggers the skin microbiome to convert it to crocetin. The substance binds to melatonin receptors and produces activity resulting in cell repair. It features in its latest product, the Supernatural Sleeping Mask.

“Melatonin is considered a key driver for the overnight processes that result in cellular repair, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant functions. As we age, we experience lower levels of overnight melatonin production. This phenomenon has been attributed to a lowered ability of the cell to perform those beneficial nocturnal behaviours,” ​said physiology-trained Erin Barlow, the head of research and development (R&D) at Emma Lewisham.

Using Gardenia jasminoides

As we sleep, the skin works to remove toxins and repair the skin barrier, synthesise collagen and stimulate cell turnover. The gardenia extracts support this process through the compound called ferulic acid, a natural antioxidant.

With this additional support, the active ingredients in the mask could catalyse nocturnal activity and enhance structure and condition. Hence, the product could target sensitised skin, reduce reddishness and dehydration, and improve skin flaking.

“The incredible advances in skin science have revealed that melatonin has wider action on the body than just driving sleep. Enhancing that melatonin-driven cascade of beneficial skin activity means that we can help optimise the skin’s own overnight behaviour, which gives an elevated foundation for the rest of the unique formulation to act​,” said Barlow.

Repair, hydrate and brighten

For hydrating properties, the firm said the mask is formulated with specialised lipopeptides, antioxidants and energy-enhancing molecules to increase the production of collagen and elastin as well as decrease skin degradation.

Specifically for the product, Barlow said the mask utilises a hydration complex that combines saccharide isomerate with two weights of hyaluronic acid and ceramides. The small molecular size could penetrate deep into the epidermis, maintained by ceramides and phyto-complexes. The process is believed to enhance the skin barrier against trans-epidermal water loss. The formulation claims to sustain the skin for up to 72 hours.

Last, the brand uses specialised plant extracts to deliver bright and conditioned skin. For instance, alpha hydroxy acids from the Hibiscus sabdariffa​ flower gently dissolve the ‘glue’ that cements dead skin cells to reveal new cells underneath. The new skin is then protected by Edelweiss stem cells, which contain high concentrations of leontopodic acid and flavonoids to promote suppleness.

Healthy ageing, probiotics and protein are major focus areas of our upcoming Growth Asia Summit in Singapore from 11 to 13 October. Check out big-name brands, international experts and pioneering start-ups slated to present here.

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