This year’s Cosmetic 360 Show, held in Paris’ Carrousel du Louvre on 18-19th October, focused on cleantech and innovation in sustainability. All of the conferences were based around this topic and many winners of the event’s annual awards – which celebrates top innovations – had created products that were designed to enhance sustainability in one or more aspects of the supply chain.
The annual show is arranged by Cosmetic Valley, an organisation that brings together companies, research centres, universities and schools in the French perfumery-cosmetics sector to help drive economic development.
We spoke to CEO of Cosmetic Valley Christophe Masson and President of Cosmetic Valley and Secrétaire Général at LVMH Marc-Antoine Jamet about this year's show, sustainable innovation and the future of the industry.
Masson explained that this year the focus of the event was on sustainability throughout the entire supply chain, which is a necessity for the cosmetics and perfume industry to have a future.
“This year it’s more about ecological transition of cosmetic industry innovation,” he said. “All companies small and large, all areas from ingredients suppliers to packaging companies are all involved in this innovation.”
Masson also said that its vital that companies put aside traditional competitiveness to be able to effectively address this industry reset.
“Everyone must work together – with competitors. We have to pull everyone together to address this systemic work. This is our priority,” he said.
The President of Cosmetics Valley and Secrétaire Général at LVMH Marc-Antoine Jamet also had some advice for companies on the future of the industry: “Unlike some other industries, we are not an industry that will be forgiven if we are not more ecological. We really do have to be one hundred per cent perfect in this direction,” he said.
He continued: “Be aware that you have to be more ecological. Even if you don’t like that, it is very consequential for your company. If you’re not forward-thinking; if you don’t know how to do this, it’s going to be a big issue for your business in the next 5 -10 years.”
The winning innovations
Perhaps unsurprisingly, many of the Cosmetic 360 Awards winners had created their innovations around the topic of sustainability.
Here we reveal the all-star inventions…
- Winner of the raw materials innovation category
Bioweg – Germany. Creating functional ingredients obtained by fermenting cellulose, to replace solid microplastics and acrylic polymers.
- Winner of the formulations & manufacturing category
Technature – France. A solid stick format heating and cleansing treatment that transforms into a milky emulsion when rinsed.
- Winner of the tests & analysis category
SGS Proderm – Germany. A new skin imaging technique to evaluate the action of anti-ageing products on collagen.
- Winner of the packaging and packing category
DWS Engraving – France. A packaging innovation that uses laser engraving in full colour on leather bottles.
- Winner of the brand & distribution category
Diva Flora – France. A skincare brand based on hemp derivatives, with a multi-level eco-design approach.
- Winner of the services to the cosmetic industry category
SFE Process – France. Equipment for carbo-distillation and obtaining essential oils using supercritical CO2.
Special CleanTech favourite award
Intact Regenerative – France. Regenerative agriculture and reduction of CO2 emissions related to alcoholic perfumery. As agriculture is responsible for 26% of global carbon emissions, Intact, a start-up from the Loiret region of France has been working on the introduction of legume crops during crop rotation in the plains of Beauce (near Orléans).
These crops enrich the soil by naturally adding nitrogen to avoid the use of chemical fertilisers that harm soil biodiversity and are the main source of greenhouse gas emissions at the agricultural level. This approach also makes it possible to limit tillage. However, soil structure affects its water-holding capacity: healthy land has better climate resilience.
These legumes are treated by low-carbon fermentation, which emits three times less CO2 than during conventional processes. This makes it possible to produce 25% vegan vegetable proteins for human consumption and 65% neutral alcohol for use in perfumery.