In a Kao survey conducted among 995 women aged between 15 and 79 in September 2024, over 30% of consumers view gentleness or non-irritating to skin as important attributes for sunscreen.
Another survey held by the company between 2022 and 2024 found that 48% of respondents used sunscreen year-round, while other data showed an upward trend in sunscreen purchase rate in the post-pandemic era.
Additionally, Google Trends data based on search terms over the past two decades have indicated growing consumer interest in sunscreen with a non-chemical formulation.
Although UV absorber-free sunscreens are recommended for those concerned about burdening their skin, such products account for less than 10% of sunscreens in the Japanese market, according to data from Intage SCI’s Nationwide Consumer Panel Survey (January to October 2024).
Against this backdrop, Kao’s R&D laboratory has developed a new formulation technology for sunscreen that is free of UV absorbers and yet offers strong sun protection, has a light texture, and does not leave a white cast.
The first application of this technology is in Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Hold Cream, which had a preliminary launch in selected drugstores in March 2024.
Following positive consumer reactions, the product will be officially launched across Japan on February 8, 2025.
The water-based sunscreen contains UV scattering agents encapsulated in moist aqua capsules that are said to help retain moisture and make the skin feel soft throughout the day.
It is also claimed to be non-greasy, formulated without alcohol, paraben and colorant, and washes off easily with soap or cleanser.
“Bioré UV has been offering value-added products that are part of consumers’ daily lives since its launch in 1996. Introduced in 2011, the Watery Essence from the brand’s flagship Aqua Rich series was a hit with consumers for its light texture, and has since broadened sunscreen use from outdoor leisure and special days out to habitual daily use.
“In 2023, Bioré launched the Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Mist, a whole-body non-aerosol mist that encourages consumers to reapply sunscreen anytime, anywhere. Through these products, Kao will further build awareness of UV protection among consumers in Japan and beyond, so people can spend more time in the sun with smiles on their faces, and boost the company’s global presence,” the firm said.
Overcoming formulation challenges
Kao’s UV absorber-free sunscreen formulation technology is intended at meeting the needs of users who expect these products to “easily blend with their skin colour, have a light texture, and provide strong UV protection”.
Non-chemical sunscreens need to give UV protection using only UV scattering agents, which are usually a powder that reflects UV rays to prevent them from reaching the skin, but such an agent is oleophilic and does not disperse in water.
To achieve good UV protection, UV absorber-free sunscreens often use an oil base into which a certain amount of UV scattering agent is added. The more oil is used, the more UV scattering agent can be added.
However, the product would end up having a heavy texture and is prone to leaving a white cast.
While a water-based formulation works well for creating a light-textured product, the UV scattering agent can only penetrate oil droplets.
In addition, Kao observed that when a water-based product is applied to the skin and the water evaporates, gaps on the skin occur and UV rays could easily penetrate, typically resulting in sunburn.
To overcome these challenges, the company investigated various approaches to incorporate a UV scattering agent, such as titanium oxide, in the water-based aqueous phase.
Eventually, the formulation was based on the idea of enveloping a UV scattering agent in a specially developed capsule with affinity to both water and oil.
The optimal capsule size and material, as well as concentration of the UV scattering agent to be enclosed in it, were studied and developed.
When applied, this Kao-exclusive formulation forms a seamless layer of UV scattering agents that has been proven in a study to effectively protect the skin from UV rays.
In the study, both the new formulation and a water-based UV absorber-free sunscreen containing no capsules were applied to a plate with an uneven surface modelling human skin.
They were then exposed to UV rays, and the optical density (capacity of an object to reduce the power of light that is passing through it) for each was measured using a UV spectral microscope.
Results showed that the new formulation had higher optical density compared to the emulsion containing no capsules.
“This indicates that an even protective layer has been created, and that the UV scattering agents contained in the capsules and oil droplets are seamlessly dispersed across the skin.”
Furthermore, another test noted the differences in skin colour before and after a conventional oil-based UV absorber-free sunscreen and the new formulation were applied to the model skin.
Compared to the area where the conventional sunscreen was applied, there was little change in skin colour and barely noticeable white cast on the part where the new formulation was used.
“Building on our expertise and using ingredients available around the world, Kao will continue developing sunscreen products that consumers everywhere will want to use every day.”
