Elastin is a key protein in the extracellular matrix (ECM). It is essential for skin elasticity and resilience, allowing skin to maintain its shape and structure.
It is crucial in giving skin a bouncy and full look often associated with youthfulness. As such, it has gained recognition as an essential factor in maintain skin health.
The researchers highlighted that the rising consumer demand for cosmetics with “clearly defined active ingredients” as the anti-ageing cosmetic market grows.
“Elastin has become an important ingredient in anti-aging products, demonstrating significant market potential and application prospects,” the research emphasised.
“This growing interest in effective anti-ageing solutions positions elastin as a valuable ingredient in the cosmetics market.”
Challenges and limitations
However, there are significant hurdles to the application of elastin in cosmetics
Firstly, there is significant need to improve production in order to enhance the yield and activity of elastin.
According to the research, elastin used in cosmetics are conventionally derived from animal sources, which is associated with low yields, batch-to-batch variability, and the presence of contaminants.
Fortunately, advancements in biotechnology have made it possible to create animal-free elastin.
The study highlighted silk-elastin-like proteins (SELPs), which can be produced at a yield of over 10 g/L, making industrial production practical.
While methods have been developed to make it easier and more efficient to produce specific proteins, the high costs of purifying these proteins are still a major obstacle to making them commercially viable.
Improving transdermal delivery
The application of elastin in cosmetics is also limited by its solubility and delivery given its high molecular weight.
The study focused on the use of ionic liquids (ILs) and deep eutectic solvents (DESs) as delivery systems.
It highlighted choline-based ILs as being a safe and effective transdermal delivery system.
For instance, a specific choline-based IL (CAGE) has been used to help deliver cyclosporin A in organogels for treating psoriasis and has also improved the skin delivery of proteins like insulin and albumin.
On the other hand, DESs made from betaine and succinic acid could improve the absorption of elastin peptides by improving skin permeability.
Further research showed this can strengthen the skin, reduce pigmentation, and fight signs of ageing, making it a promising ingredient for anti-wrinkle cosmetics.
The research also noted a need to improve the stability of elastin during production, storage and transportation.
Lastly, the study highlighted potential safety challenges and advised that “systematic testing and evaluation must be conducted to ensure the suitability and tolerability of elastin in cosmetic products.”
“In conclusion, the utilisation of elastin in cosmetic formulations presents novel opportunities for the advancement of functional skin care products,” said the study.
“A comprehensive investigation into its physiological functions, mechanisms of action, production processes, and associated application technologies is crucial for addressing the pressing demand for high-quality elastin raw materials within the cosmetic industry.”
Source: Cosmetics
Applications of Elastin in Cosmetics: Prospects and Challenges
Authors: Ting Lei, Lin Ye, Yunlin Pei, Huaiqing Sun, Chaowan Guo
