Vitis V was established in 2022 by Susan Mickan, a winemaker with 36 vintages under her belt, who saw an opportunity to challenge the way grapeseed oil and extract are produced.
The Barossa Valley-based company produces its own grapeseed oil and extract using white grape seeds, which do not undergo the fermentation process during winemaking.
“White grapes don’t go through the fermentation process, so there’s no loss of polyphenols to the to the white wine,” Mickan elaborated.
The seeds, sourced from various wineries in the region, are cold pressed in small batches and macerated for seven to 10 days.
However, one of the challenges of producing the grapeseed oil and extract this way is that its shelf life is significantly shortened.
The Vitis V Face TonIQ, which contains grapeseed oil and extract, has a shelf life of six months.
Mickan told CosmeticsDesign-Asia that this short shelf life has hindered the brand’s expansion opportunities, and she has already turned down distribution offers.
“The whole distribution network that is currently in place is designed for a long shelf life. It cannot accommodate a six-month shelf life.”
Despite this, Mickan is reluctant to extend the shelf life of the products to ensure its high quality.
“As soon as I start trying to extend its shelf life, that means I’m back to deodorising, degumming and doing all that refining. That’s the reason conventional skin care uses those ingredients. As soon as it has long shelf life, you would have removed the synergies that makes Vitis V so powerful.”
At the moment, the product is available through the company’s website and ships to locations in Australia, New Zealand, Asia Pacific, the US and Canada.
The company is also open to participating in pop-ups and other short-term retail events.
“I am absolutely happy with working within those limitations,” said Mickan.
A ‘zombie oil’
Grapeseed oil has been widely used in cosmetics because of its lightweight texture, high antioxidant content, and moisturising properties.
“Grape seeds are one of the highest sources of linoleic fatty acids in the world – about 66% to 75%. Linoleic fatty acids are directly correlated with your skin barrier. Your skin uses it to produce ceramides, as well as a multitude of other significant molecules. It’s driving everything that is happening,” said Mickan.
However, she believes that the conventional grapeseed oil we have in the market today have been overly refined till they have lost their potency.
“Most grapeseed oil is made from seeds that have gone through the fermentation process [during winemaking] So already you’ve lost some polyphenols to the matrix. Those leftovers skins and seeds go through a distillation process to remove any residual alcohol and then they make grapeseed oil.”
The grapeseed oil is extracted mostly wit hexane and then it goes through de-gumming, bleaching and further refinement that “removes all the beneficials”.
“What you have left is a zombie oil. It looks like an oil, but everything has been removed to improve shelf life,” said Mickan.
