Aēsop introduces first formulation containing BHA and PHA as alternative to physical exfoliants

Aēsop Lucent Facial Refiner
Aēsop's Lucent Facial Refiner is a rinse-off exfoliating mask that claims to simultaneously refine and replenish the skin. (Aēsop)

Australian brand Aēsop has launched an exfoliating mask formulated with both a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) and a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), providing an alternative to products containing physical exfoliants.

The brand, which was acquired by L’Oréal in 2023, had been working on this product for more than six years.

Conceived by scientists at its in-house laboratory in Melbourne, Lucent Facial Refiner is Aēsop’s first formulation to include both BHA and PHA, alongside a variety of essential oils and vitamins.

The product functions as a rinse-off exfoliating mask that simultaneously refines and replenishes the skin, resulting in a more even texture and appearance.

“From the outset, we knew that we wanted to explore the use of a gentle exfoliant like PHA — which is the first time we have used this kind of ingredient — but in the context of our distinctly sensorial approach to skin care, which balances both pleasure and performance.

“The formulation had to offer the consumer not just exfoliation, but replenishment; not just a supportive range of vitamins, but essential oils that elevate the experience of caring for the skin,” said Samy Hamada, Director of R&D at Aēsop.

Power of duality

The combination of salicylic acid (BHA) and gluconolactone (PHA) works together to remove dead skin cells and improve the skin’s texture.

Other ingredients including vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid), alongside select humectants and emollients, serve to enhance hydration.

The product’s dual ability to clarify and nourish the skin makes it particularly suitable for dry or dull skin.

This mask also caters to those seeking an alternative to products relying on physical exfoliants, such as Aēsop’s Purifying Facial Exfoliating Paste, which is a cream-based formulation containing finely ground quartz and lactic acid.

In addition, the Lucent Facial Refiner’s warm, floral and woody aroma comes from essential oils of frankincense, sandalwood, and rose petal.

Aēsop Lucent range
Aēsop's Lucent range is aimed at skin brightening and said to address the signs of hyperpigmentation over time. (Aēsop)

Lucent range

Since its release in 2016, the Lucent Facial Concentrate has been one of Aēsop’s crowd-favourite products.

It is a brightening serum enhanced with vitamin C and niacinamide, whose aqueous viscosity and lightweight texture are ideal for those who shun oil-based hydrators and heavy creams, but still desire concentrated doses of vitamins, intense hydration, and nourishing botanicals.

The newly launched Lucent Facial Refiner is an extension of the Lucent range.

When used together, this duo is claimed to leave the skin more luminous, smoother, and with a more even appearance, and can help to address the signs of hyperpigmentation over time.

The Lucent Facial Concentrate may be applied daily while the Lucent Facial Refiner is recommended to be used twice a week.

“For the days where both products are used, begin with the Facial Refiner, applying a generous layer across freshly cleansed skin. For optimum results, leave it on for 15 minutes — the mask’s gel-cream texture provides a richly tactile experience and a moment of respite.

“Then rinse off with warm water, followed by a generous splash of toner. Next, massage half a teaspoon of the Facial Concentrate into the skin. For colder climates or users who require deeper hydration, this versatile serum may be layered with a richer moisturiser.”