Skin science: Latest stories on cosmetics science and formulation

Skin science

We dive into our latest stories on formulation and science, featuring LG H&H’s ingredient modified from a traditional herbal medicine, Amorepacific’s joint research with Johns Hopkins, hair health benefits of Asian plantain, and more.

Formula modified from longevity medicine exhibits anti-ageing properties – study

A study funded by LG Household & Health Care (LG H&H) has found an ingredient formulation modified from traditional herbal medicine Gongjin-dan (GJD) to possess several anti-ageing properties.

Korean researchers drew inspiration from GJD and derived a mixed fraction from five herbs — dang gui, Japanese cornel, Ganoderma lucidum (reishi), Thymus vulgaris (garden thyme), and Asparagus cochinchinensis (Chinese asparagus).

The fraction’s ability to inhibit the loss of dermal components due to extrinsic factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, was investigated.

It was found that matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene expression was inhibited (18-28%) and fibrillin-1 protein (23-37%) was restored.

Amorepacific backs slow-ageing, immune response efficacy through joint research

South Korean beauty giant Amorepacific has backed the slow-ageing and immune response efficacy of two of its proprietary ingredients —RE.D Flavonoid and Senomune — through joint research.

Launched in 2022, the New Beauty Research Initiative (NBRI) is a collaborative programme between Amorepacific and the Department of Dermatology at Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine in the US.

Through this programme, the two organisations are conducting multifaceted research on skin ageing.

Study findings on the two ingredients were announced at the 2025 Society for Investigative Dermatology (SID) Annual Meeting held in San Diego in early May.

Shampoo containing Asian plantain provides hair health benefits, cuts shedding - RCT

A shampoo containing Asian plantain (Plantago asiatica L.) has been shown to exhibit hair health benefits in adults, according to a new study undertaken by females aged 20 to 60.

Following a four-week wash-out period, a total of 40 participants used either the test shampoo or a placebo for 12 weeks. The shampoo under investigation was prepared by incorporating 0.03% of the Plantago asiatica L. extract.

The researchers, from Korea, reported: “The test group demonstrated progressive improvements in hair strand thickness (0.009 mm, 0.017 mm, and 0.020 mm at weeks 4, 8, and 12, respectively) and hair density (0.9 hairs/cm2 at weeks 4 and 8, 1.1 hairs/cm2 at week 12). Additionally, a significant reduction in hair shedding was observed compared to the placebo group.”

Peptide progress: New ginseng extracts identified with anti-ageing skin care potential

A combination of pharmacology, machine learning, and experimental validation has revealed key ginseng peptide extracts (GPEs) that have potential for skin care products.

This is believed to be the first study where, unlike previous research into ginseng saponins and polysaccharides, academics have identified that ginseng extracts containing water-soluble small molecules and polypeptides exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-ageing properties.

Writing in the journal Cosmetics, the research team from China stated that in vitro assays revealed that GPE reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α, IL-1β) in RAW264.7 macrophages while enhancing collagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts.

Topical DHA and EPA has pro-resolution effects on skin inflammation, says new research

A study funded by Unilever reviewed a range of studies, including internal research and data, PubMed/Medline studies, and Google searches, which investigated the role of omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids, specifically DHA and EPA, in resolving skin inflammation.

Evidence indicated that DHA and EPA, through their conversion into specialised pro-resolving mediators (SPMs), actively facilitate the resolution of skin inflammation caused by UV, pollution, or injury. They also support skin barrier function, reduce erythema, and promote wound healing.

These findings support the development of natural ingredients for formulations targeting inflammatory skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and acne, and photoageing.