On June 11, CosmeticsDesign US was joined by a cohort of experienced industry experts to untangle and discuss some of the intricacies of the skin microbiome. Our webinar opened with a presentation by Eleonora Mazzilli, Trend Localization & Business Development Director, North America, at BEAUTYSTREAMS, who delved into the data behind the innovations driving this growing market sector.
Following Mazzilli’s enthralling presentation, we opened the conversation to include Dr. Jennifer Davis Alexander, Holistic Skin Scientist and Founder of Dr. Jen Knows Skin; Paula Simpson, Innovation, Product Development, and Branding Consultant at Nutribloom Consulting; and Alanna Tran, Founder and Chief Scientist at BiotechBeauty.
Together, we explored the untapped potential of the skin microbiome in the beauty and personal care sector, as well as their thoughts on the current market landscape.
For those who missed the live broadcast, the webinar is now available on demand.
We caught up with our panelists after the event to gather their answers to your burning questions, which were asked during the broadcast.
Question: How does regulatory address microbiome-friendly vs “99.9% kill”?
Dr. Jennifer Davis Alexander: To date, no regulatory body has formally defined the term “microbiome-friendly,” and standard microbial testing still focuses on safety—not microbial support. The sweet spot between supporting beneficial microbes and responsibly managing pathogenic ones is not yet fully understood, but as research advances and these claims become more common, clarity and regulation are sure to follow.
For now, it’s up to brands to formulate with integrity—prioritizing safety, efficacy, and being clear and honest with consumers about the current limits of microbiome skin care.
Eleonora Mazzilli: “Microbiome-friendly” and “99.9% kill of bacteria and viruses” claims represent distinct approaches to product formulation and regulation. Microbiome-friendly products prioritize maintaining the natural balance of microorganisms on the skin or body, often utilizing gentle ingredients and formulations that don’t disrupt the existing microbial ecosystem.
Disinfectants, on the other hand, are regulated to ensure they effectively reduce harmful microorganisms to a safe level, often claiming to kill 99.9% of germs. Regulatory frameworks also differ, with “microbiome-friendly” claims often lacking specific regulatory oversight, while “99.9% kill” claims may be subject to regulations concerning antimicrobial efficacy and safety. Claims like kills 99.9% of bacteria and viruses are treated as antimicrobial efficacy claims.
In the US, these fall under the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) for surface disinfectants and the FDA for antimicrobial drugs and hand sanitizers. It requires efficacy testing, safety assessments, labeling, and registration processes. The rapid growth of microbiome-friendly claims and the growing demand for gentle-on-the-skin-flora formulations, which preserve beneficial bacteria, has prompted regulatory scrutiny, especially for products containing live microbes.
Regulatory bodies, such as the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the European Medicines Agency (EMA), have yet to establish specific guidelines for these types of claims. However, there are official working groups investigating microbiome claims and products for the skin. Certifications from reputable organizations may provide a degree of assurance regarding the authenticity of skin “microbiome-friendly” claims.
For example:
- proderm-SGS – Offered by Europe’s leading CROs for dermatological research, the microbiome-friendly seal from SGS-proDERM is part of a series of quality seals offered by them. Wishing to distance themselves from meaningless statements, the microbiome-friendly seal is clinically based.
- MyMicrobiome – The MyMicrobiome seal for microbiome-friendly claims is obtained by conducting in vitro studies, rather than directly on human skin. While this makes for faster screening of ingredients especially, it does not indicate whether any changes in the microbiome have developed, or what the effect of the product on the skin would be in relation to the “live” microbiome.
Alanna Tran: Regulations address “microbiome-friendly” versus “99.9% kill” claims by ensuring brands provide evidence to support these opposing benefits. For microbiome-friendly products, brands must demonstrate they preserve beneficial bacteria and support microbiome diversity through clinical or third-party testing.
In contrast, “99.9% kill” claims fall under stricter regulation, often classifying products as OTC drugs requiring FDA approval in the US. These claims must prove effectiveness against specific pathogens while ensuring safety.
Regulators are focused on preventing misleading claims, ensuring products either prioritize microbiome preservation or antimicrobial action, but not both simultaneously, without robust evidence.
Question: How personalized should microbiome-based skin care be?
Dr. Jennifer Davis Alexander: In an ideal world, microbiome-based skin care would be fully personalized. Each person’s skin microbiome is as unique as a fingerprint, influenced by everything from genetics and environment to stress and diet. But realistically, that level of individualization can be costly, labor-intensive, and difficult to scale.
Semi-personalized formulations guided by broader factors like lifestyle, geography, age, or racial background offer a more feasible approach. However, current data are insufficient to define clear, evidence-based categories for personalization. In the meantime, microbiome-friendly skincare should focus on broadly supporting barrier health and overall microbial balance—while avoiding overpromising benefits.
Eleonora Mazzilli: As research progresses, the skin care industry is poised for further breakthroughs, ushering in a new era where personalized and microbiome-centric skin care might become part of the norm. The skin microbiome is highly individualized, and what works for one person may not work for another.
Personalized microbiome-based skin care should involve tailored product formulations and routines based on an individual’s unique skin microbiome composition, lifestyle, and environmental factors. This approach aims to optimize skin health by nurturing beneficial bacteria and addressing specific needs.
As the skin microbiome evolves with age, brands can consider hyper-segmentation with skin care solutions targeted to specific age groups, considering that an 18-year-old’s skin microbiome will be very different from a 50-year-old’s. Considering the variability in individual microbiomes, personalized testing approaches may become more prevalent, with the goal to tailor skin care routines to an individual’s unique microbial profile.
One company worth mentioning here is Kolmar, which introduced CAIOME (Cosmetic AI + Microbiome) earlier this year. This device allows users to perform a detailed microbiome analysis in under 5 minutes and then creates a customized skin care formulation. Some of the most exciting techniques available for studying and testing skin microbiome products across all age groups include: Microbial DNA Sequencing, Meta-Genomic Sequencing, RNA Sequencing, and Quantitative PCR (qPCR).
Question: What about using humic ingredients in skin care?
Dr. Jennifer Davis Alexander: Humic substances, like fulvic acid, are gaining attention for their mineral content and reported antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing benefits. However, data on their topical efficacy and impact on the skin microbiome remains limited.
While they may hold promise, more targeted, microbiome-specific research is needed before their true impact on the skin microbiome can be confirmed.
Question: How to evaluate probiotics to be suitable and functioning for topical application?
Eleonora Mazzilli: The market for skin “microbiome-friendly” products has witnessed a surge in diverse formulations, ranging from cleansers and moisturizers to serums and masks. Notable ingredients in these formulations include prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotics, and other microbiome-friendly compounds.
Prebiotics, such as inulin and fructo-oligosaccharides, serve as nourishment for beneficial bacteria, fostering their growth. Probiotics, which are live bacteria or yeast, are incorporated into products to introduce beneficial microorganisms directly to the skin.
Postbiotics, metabolic byproducts of probiotics, offer a gentler approach, delivering the benefits of microbial activity without actually introducing live organisms. Cosmetic ingredients that claim to be “microbiome-friendly” aim to support the natural balance of the skin and hair microbiota.
These ingredients claim to help promote the growth of beneficial microorganisms, maintain a healthy microbial community, and contribute to overall skin and hair well-being.
Alanna Tran: When choosing skin care products with probiotics, look for ones that highlight strain-specific benefits, as not all probiotics are created equal. Products should feature clinically validated strains known to support skin health, like improving the barrier or reducing inflammation.
Check if the brand ensures probiotic viability—surviving formulation and storage—through methods like encapsulation. A skin-friendly pH (around 4.5-5.5) is also a good sign of compatibility with your skin.
Finally, follow storage instructions carefully; even the best formulations require proper handling, such as avoiding heat or direct sunlight, to work effectively.
Final thoughts
Some of our panelists also shared their final thoughts on the skin microbiome topic, and here are their key takeaways.
Paula Simpson
“Consumer interest is shifting toward a holistic, longevity-focused model, with the gut-skin-brain axis and the microbiome playing a central role. Microbiome science is revealing how microbial balance influences inflammation, skin barrier integrity, and even mood.
“This is driving demand for probiotic, postbiotic, and prebiotic-based formulations to complement topical skincare. Consumers are seeking evidence-backed solutions that support microbial harmony, often paired with personalized diagnostics and rooted in both modern science and traditional wellness systems.”
Dr. Jennifer Davis Alexander
“As microbiome science continues to evolve, it calls for our continued curiosity, care, and honesty. Supporting the skin’s natural ecology requires more than trend-driven claims; it demands formulations that respect the barrier, consider the whole person, and are grounded in both emerging science and timeless principles of balance.
“The work ahead is promising, and it’s ours to shape with integrity, intentionality, and inclusivity.”
