The research highlights the antioxidant and anti-senescence effects of mangosteen pericarp extract (MPE), positioning it as a promising candidate for future cosmeceutical formulations.
The study was also the first of its kind to demonstrate that MPE could reduce fibroblast ageing caused by ultraviolet A (UVA) exposure, with the extract showing clear potential as an active ingredient in anti-ageing skin care.
Turning fruit waste into functional ingredients
Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana), often dubbed the “queen of fruits”, is rich in bioactive compounds, particularly α-mangostin. The fruit’s thick purple peel, which is commonly discarded, contains the highest concentration of these compounds.
Researchers prepared MPE using a simple ethanol-based maceration method, achieving a high yield of α-mangostin (60.9%) in the final extract.
They aimed to explore how this agricultural by-product could be transformed into a high-value skin care ingredient, and noted that the extraction method used was efficient, sustainable, and suitable for industrial scaling.
Fighting oxidative stress and cellular ageing
Skin ageing caused by UVA radiation, also known as photo-ageing, results in the breakdown of collagen and an increase in enzymes that damage the skin’s structure.
The Thai research team focused on how MPE might counteract this process in human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA.
In their lab tests, fibroblasts pretreated with MPE showed a 41% drop in senescent cells compared to UVA-damaged cells without treatment, a 39% reduction in MMP-1 (a key enzyme that breaks down collagen), and a 52% increase in pro-collagen type I, a precursor for skin-firming collagen.
These changes suggested that MPE could not only slow cellular ageing, but also actively help preserve the skin’s structural integrity.
The extract also showed strong antioxidant effects. When fibroblasts were exposed to hydrogen peroxide — a compound that mimics oxidative stress — those treated with MPE produced far fewer reactive oxygen species (ROS), molecules that contribute to ageing and inflammation.
A multi-pronged defence
The team’s findings pointed to multiple mechanisms behind MPE’s skin-protective effects, such as UVA absorption, ROS suppression, collagen preservation, and senescence control.
For instance, spectral analysis showed that MPE absorbed UVA wavelengths, which helped reduce the amount of harmful radiation reaching skin cells.
At the same time, by neutralising ROS, MPE helped prevent damage to proteins, lipids, and DNA.
Additionally, MPE was shown to have lowered MMP-1 and boosted pro-collagen levels (thereby helping to maintain dermal structure) and reduced markers of cellular ageing, such as SA-β-Gal activity.
Together, these results suggested that MPE targeted both the causes and effects of UVA damage, making it a strong candidate for anti-ageing skin care formulations.
Implications for cosmeceuticals market
With consumers increasingly demanding natural, sustainable, and scientifically backed ingredients, mangosteen peel extract aligns well with current industry trends.
This study, for instance, may support the idea that upcycled agricultural waste can serve as a rich source of active compounds.
In this case, mangosteen peel — usually a waste product — could be turned into a premium cosmeceutical ingredient.
As one of the world’s largest producers of mangosteen, Thailand stands to benefit from this value-added approach.
If commercialised, MPE could generate new income streams for farmers and processors while meeting the growing demand for green beauty.
Safety and formulation potential
Importantly, MPE showed no toxic effects on human skin cells at concentrations up to 50µg/mL. The study found that cells retained their normal shape and viability after treatment, making MPE a safe candidate for topical use.
However, the researchers noted that MPE was lipophilic, meaning it did not easily penetrate the skin. To increase its effectiveness, it is necessary to develop delivery systems, such as liposomes or nano-emulsions, that help the extract reach deeper layers of the dermis.
The study also called for in vivo and clinical studies to confirm efficacy on human skin. While it proved the concept in vitro, the researchers stated that the next step was real-world testing.
A step forward in anti-ageing research
The cosmetics and personal care industry is increasingly looking to botanical ingredients backed by scientific evidence. MPE fits this model, offering not only a natural alternative to synthetic compounds but also a functional and sustainable option.
The researchers concluded: “We suggest that MPE holds strong potential as an active ingredient in cosmeceuticals for protecting against UVA-induced skin ageing. However, further research is necessary to elucidate its underlying mechanisms of action.
“Additionally, due to the lipophilic nature of MPE, which may limit skin penetration, the development of an effective delivery system remains a crucial area for future investigation.”
Source: Cosmetics
Anti-Senescence and Anti-Photoaging Activities of Mangosteen Pericarp Extract on UVA-Induced Fibroblasts”
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030108
Authors: Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, et al.
