While Ayurveda is increasingly showing up in the Australian wellness market, the incorporation of Ayurvedic principles and medicinal herbs into skin care is still quite uncommon in terms of mainstream, widespread adoption, said Rajesh Thakorlal, director of AyurScience.
The brand was co-founded by Rajesh and Mitesh Thakorlal, two second-generation pharmacists raised in a family deeply connected to Ayurveda.
Citing data from an Expert Market Research report, Rajesh said that the Australian market for Ayurvedic herbs is already sizeable at about AUD175m, and the broader Ayurveda market, including non-medicinal, non-skin care and services, is even larger.
“Most of the herbs are used medicinally as single herbal remedies or incorporated into other supplements such as vitamins and minerals. Major vitamin brands in Australia are beginning to incorporate some of these trending herbs into their formulations, but there is a lack of products in the market with multi-herbal combination as per Ayurvedic principles.
“Specifically for skin care, even though there are some major international brands that have used the Ayurvedic approach, these are not present in Australia yet. Therefore, while the Ayurvedic product segment is growing from a small base, the focus has been on the use of such herbs in Ayurvedic medicines and not in cosmetics till now,” she told CosmeticsDesign-Asia.
She added that Ayurvedic skin care brands are few and often in smaller, niche wellness stores rather than large retail chains, and that many Australians may not know the specifics of Ayurvedic skin science.
To raise awareness, Rajesh considers consumer education, building trust, making products and information accessible, and adapting cultural relevance to be key.
“For AyurScience, this is being done via education and awareness campaigns with scientifically backed communications, including long-form videos and webinars with experts.
“In addition, we are harnessing customer testimonials, collaborating with health and wellness key opinion leaders, partnerships with Ayurvedic practitioners, a retail presence with in-store education, creating direct experiences, and engaging in clinical studies and case reports.”
Balancing Ayurvedic wisdom and modern science
Formulated to address specific skin concerns, AyurScience’s signature lines CLARITY and PURITY are targeted at pigmented and acne-prone skin respectively.
Both ranges have a regimen (cleanser, serum, moisturising lotion and mask) to “ensure a noticeable outcome after a period of usage”.
The clay masks, in particular, are hero products that deliver deep penetration of a concentrated dose of active ingredients without stripping the skin barrier. They can be used weekly or biweekly, alongside other products in its series, as a treatment booster.
A common ingredient in all AyurScience skin care products is a complex named AyurActive. It is a dual-herbal blend that comprises two proprietary ingredients — Ayuredi (Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, also known as holy basil or Tulsi) and Emblica (Emblica officinalis fruit extract, also known as Indian gooseberry or Amla).
According to Rajesh, both herbs have been used for over a millennium in Ayurvedic medicines and on topical preparations.
“The inspiration for AyurActive complex came from observing the usage of Amla and Tulsi for skin and hair from my grandparents to my parents to our spouses, as well as reading up on traditional literature on how these ingredients have been used over the generations.
“They are packed with vitamins A and C. Vitamin A supports skin cell renewal, boosts collagen production, regulates sebum oil production, supports skin barrier and healing, and is a powerful antioxidant. Vitamin C has similar functions to vitamin A, but has additional effects in brightening and evening out skin tone, and soothing inflammation.”
These properties combine to form a strong basis for each formulation, in which other ingredients are added to create an effective skin care product.
To ensure that the concentration and quality of ingredients meet cosmetic GMP standards, AyurScience employed the services of a cosmetic scientist to help develop AyurActive using its suggested Ayurvedic herbs and to source the ingredients from reputable sources.
“The ingredients used are proprietary ingredients at concentrations that match those used in skin studies and human trials. These research demonstrate the efficacy of these ingredients, which also have had their safety evaluated, after a period of usage on the skin.”
Furthermore, each product is infused with AyurScent, a blend of essential oils designed to elevate the multisensory experience to “nurture both skin and spirit”.
At the same time, the brand is looking to expand its offerings as the tradition of Ayurvedic wellness extends across many skin and hair issues.
Rajesh shared that the key focus for AyurScience’s next round of new product development will be hair solutions that improve scalp health, hair strength, and hair growth.
