Researchers at Shoolini University and the Sant Longowal Institute of Engineering and Technology analysed around 55 plant species used in skin, hair, oral and lip care, as well as fragrances.
They subsequently positioned botanicals as strategic tools in global beauty, but warned that the category would only mature if industry closed gaps in clinical data, standardisation, and regulatory alignment.
The review linked the surge of interest in plant-based actives to three drivers: distrust of certain synthetic chemicals, demand for sustainability, and the growth of cosmeceuticals.
Citing market data, the authors reported that the natural cosmetics market was valued at about USD31.8bn in 2023 and could reach around USD45.6bn by 2030, with a CAGR of roughly 5%.
The broader cosmetics market is forecasted to climb from about USD296bn to nearly USD446bn over the same period. Asia-Pacific (APAC) has been highlighted as a key growth engine, driven by rising skin care spend and “clean” positioning.
Where plant actives stand in formulations
The review compared efficacy, regulatory status, stability, cost, and sustainability for common botanicals such as aloe vera, green tea, shea butter, grape seed, chamomile, neem and cocoa butter.
In skin care, aloe vera and chamomile are presented as go-to ingredients for hydration and soothing, with human and lab data showing reduced redness and irritation.
Green tea and grape seed extracts are recognised for antioxidant and anti-ageing effects via protection against oxidative stress and support of collagen, but both suffer from polyphenol instability in finished products.
Shea and cocoa butters were described as reliable emollients with strong barrier repair and excellent physical stability, making them attractive bases for a wide range of formats.
The authors also tracked a broader shift from facial care to whole-routine applications. Eucalyptus, pine, and neem appear as antimicrobial agents in scalp products targeting dandruff and follicle health, while goji berries, thyme, and tea catechins are used as antioxidant tools to protect hair from UV damage.
In oral care, aloe, chamomile, clove, garlic, and neem are incorporated into toothpastes and mouthwashes for anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal benefits.
For lip care, oils from sunflower, jojoba, and Ziziphus seeds are suggested as multifunctional ingredients for moisturisation, wound healing and UV support.
Evidence strong for a few key plants
The authors combined narrative review with meta-analytic data, citing an analysis of 22 clinical trials with 1,845 participants that showed how plant-based cosmetic ingredients could significantly improve skin hydration, wrinkle depth, and pigmentation, with aloe vera, green tea polyphenols and grape seed extract showing the most consistent effects.
They also highlighted a recent trial of an oral four-botanical blend (Eternal Young) as an example of beauty-from-within effect — after four weeks, subjects showed improved hydration, elasticity, thickness and radiance, and reduced wrinkle depth and melanin, compared to placebo.
However, the review stated that the evidence base was uneven. For many botanicals, data still come mainly from in vitro work or small, short-term human studies with varied endpoints. As such, it remains difficult to convert promising mechanistic data into robust claims that can satisfy regulators, dermatologists, and multinational brand owners.
Safety, allergenicity and regulatory pressure
The review also focused on safety and toxicology. The authors stressed that natural did not equal risk-free, as botanical extracts are complex mixtures that can irritate, sensitise or, in rare cases, pose systemic risk, especially when quality control is weak.
They summarised the EU cosmetic framework, which requires a full Cosmetic Product Safety Report and margin of safety of at least 100 for non-genotoxic endpoints. In vitro methods for skin irritation, corrosion, and sensitisation are already standard in the EU due to animal testing bans.
Additionally, the review flagged allergenicity as a frequent issue, especially for essential oils, as many regulated fragrance allergens are natural components like linalool, limonene, eugenol, and citral.
The EU Annex III update, which has expanded the list of allergens that must be declared on labels at very low levels, directly affecting brands that rely on “100% natural fragrance”. This is further compounded by IFRA guidance on phototoxic materials, such as furocoumarins in citrus oils.
In the US, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) has introduced mandatory facility registration, product listing, safety substantiation, and upcoming allergen labelling, raising expectations for safety documentation from botanical suppliers.
Stability, variability and sourcing challenges
On the technical side, the review highlighted stability and raw material variability as major bottlenecks. Many high-value phytochemicals, particularly polyphenols and antioxidants, degrade quickly when exposed to light, oxygen or heat, shortening shelf life and undermining performance.
In parallel, the chemical profile of plant extracts can shift with species, geography, harvest timing, and extraction method. This variability complicates both clinical reproducibility and safety assessment.
To manage this, the authors recommended wider use of DNA barcoding, chromatographic fingerprinting, and isotopic analysis to verify identity and monitor batch-to-batch consistency. They also warned of rising sustainability risks, with overharvesting, water stress, and land-use change threatening some botanical supply chains.
Ultimately, sustainable harvesting guidelines, alternative sourcing, and stronger community partnerships remain essential to protect both biodiversity and local economies.
Biotech, green chemistry and circularity
The paper presented several technology tracks as enablers for a more reliable plant-based toolbox. It described plant cell and tissue culture as scalable ways to produce rare or sensitive compounds — such as rosmarinic acid, berberine and podophyllotoxin — without relying on agricultural land or vulnerable ecosystems.
Furthermore, the researchers pinpointed green extraction techniques, including supercritical carbon dioxide (CO₂) and ultrasonic-assisted methods, for their ability to improve yield and purity while cutting solvent use and environmental impact.
They also discussed delivery technologies, such as liposomes, phytosomes and nanostructured lipid carriers, as tools to stabilise fragile molecules, enhance skin penetration, and enable controlled release. The authors noted that these systems themselves required “safety-by-design” assessment for long-term dermal exposure.
They added that circular economy approaches, such as upcycling grape pomace or citrus peels from food processing into cosmetic ingredients, could help reduce waste and improve sustainability metrics.
Future indications
Better alignment among regulations, consumer expectations, and emerging science is needed for the next phase of plant-based cosmetics.
Advances in non-animal toxicology, such as 3D bio-printed skin and organ-on-chip models, promise more predictive safety data, while biotechnology and green chemistry offer scalable, sustainable routes to rare phytochemicals. Techniques like plant cell culture, microbial fermentation, and supercritical CO₂ can improve purity and lower environmental impact,.
The researchers concluded: “Plant-derived cosmetic actives represent more than natural alternatives to synthetics; they are drivers of innovation. To fully realise their potential, research must bridge traditional ethnobotanical knowledge with modern clinical validation, integrate emerging delivery technologies, and strengthen global regulatory frameworks.
“A multidisciplinary approach uniting phytochemistry, dermatology, biotechnology, and regulatory science will be essential in shaping the next generation of effective, sustainable, and safe plant-based cosmetics.”
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
“Plant-based ingredients in cosmetic science: Current applications, limitations, and prospects”
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70034
Authors: Anwesha Bandyopadhyay, et al.
