Centella asiatica ‘bubbles’, key proteins boost hair growth in 56-day study

Green Cica Centella Leaf with Madecassoside in Serum Bubble
Extracellular vesicles are extremely small, fat-based “bubbles” that deliver important substances like proteins and fats between cells. (Getty Images)

A liquid formula combining natural parts from the Centella asiatica plant with growth-boosting proteins can greatly improve hair health in under two months when applied to the scalp, according to new research.

This was the key finding from a clinical study conducted by researchers at Hungkuang University, Chinese Medical University, Kyoto University, University of Pennsylvania, and Temple University.

The study, which involved 60 participants, found that the combined formula resulted in thicker, denser, and longer hair. It also led to less hair loss and lower oil levels on the scalp, compared to a placebo.

However, the researchers emphasised that this technology should be considered a cosmetic scalp care method, not a medicine for hair loss conditions like alopecia.

Five-group study

The trial took place in Taiwan and enrolled men and women aged 18 to 60 who were healthy and had not recently used major scalp treatments. Participants were randomly sorted into five groups of 12 people.

Group A received a placebo base liquid, group B the base liquid with caffeine and panthenol, and group C the base liquid with the man-made growth proteins insulin-like growth factor-1 (rIGF-1) and fibroblast growth factor-7 (rFGF-7). Group D was given the base liquid plus all three active components — rIGF-1, rFGF-7, and Centella asiatica (C. asiatica) extracellular vesicles (EVs), while group E was given the base liquid with all three actives and C. asiatica EVs.

Cells release EVs, which are extremely small, fat-based “bubbles” that act like microscopic mail carriers, delivering important substances like proteins and fats between cells. The C. asiatica EVs came from the plant’s various parts (leaf, stem and callus) and were highly concentrated.

The growth proteins were specially designed to be linked to a human antibody piece, which made them more stable and increased their lifespan. This allows them to stay active on the scalp’s surface for a longer period, potentially improving results even when used in low amounts.

Caffeine and panthenol were used as supporting ingredients, as they are known to encourage hair follicle activity, block negative hormone effects, and improve hair strength.

Over a 56-day period, the participants applied about 1ml of the liquid essence to their scalp once daily in the evening after washing their hair.

Superior results from combination formula

Scalp and hair features were measured at the start, then every 14 days up to day 56. While all groups showed some improvement, group E saw the strongest and most reliable results.

The group showed a statistically significant 59% drop in scalp oil from the start, compared to 47.7% in the placebo group. The total hair length grown in group E reached was also significantly more than the placebo, an effect noted as early as day 14 that lasted throughout the study.

Additionally, group E’s average hair strand thickness increase was roughly double that of the placebo, and hair density increased by 23.9% from the start of the study, versus 11.9% for the placebo group.

Furthermore, group E saw the greatest reduction in hairs lost during the comb test, with a 63.6% drop from the start at day 56, compared to 43.1% in the placebo group. Because the other formulas did not significantly beat the placebo in this regard, the study implied that that all three active ingredients might need to work together to strongly reduce visible hair fall.

Synergy drives performance

The combination formula’s strong performance likely came from the synergy between the plant-based bubbles, engineered growth proteins, and caffeine/panthenol base.

IGF-1 and FGF-7, proteins known to control hair growth, help keep hair follicles in the active growth phase and protect hair cells from dying.

At the same time, C. asiatica is traditionally known to heal and reduce swelling. Its EVs are thought to deliver helpful plant chemicals into scalp cells more effectively than standard plant extracts, as well as support the hair’s root area, improve blood flow, and balance oil glands.

Caffeine and panthenol provided additional support by stimulating hair cells and supporting hair strength.

While the basic formula did improve some features, its effects were much weaker than the results seen when combined with the plant bubbles and growth proteins.

Early but promising results

The researchers highlighted that this was an exploratory cosmetic trial, not a test for medical use in patients with diagnosed hair loss. The participants were relatively young, and the 56-day testing period was only a part of the full hair growth cycle.

The study’s authors recommended larger and longer trials, and including older participants and those with more advanced hair loss, to confirm if these strong benefits would apply to people with more serious needs.

For cosmetics brands and manufacturers, the data provides a strong early technical foundation. The results support cosmetic claims about improved thickness, density and length, and reduced visible hair fall in healthy users over 56 days, all confirmed by instrument-based measurements.

The researchers stated that the results could offer “a cosmetic approach to scalp and hair health distinct from conventional drug-based alopecia treatment”.

Source: Cosmetics

“Centella asiatica L. Urb. Extracellular Vesicle and Growth Factor Essence for Hair and Scalp Health: A 56-Day Exploratory Randomized Trial”

https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060253

Authors: Chang Tsong-Min, et al.