It marks the first time scientists have successfully isolated the tiny biological packages from this specific orchid species to test their potential in high-end skin care formulations.
The study was conducted by researchers at Pegavision Corp, FacialBeau International Corp, Industrial Technology Research Institute, and National Chung-Hsing University.
The plant-derived exosome-like extracellular vesicles (PELVs), branded as Exorigin OR, are microscopic spheres that naturally carry proteins, lipids, and genetic material. As they share a similar structure to human cells, they can effectively bypass the skin’s natural barrier.
The research team found that these orchid-derived particles could penetrate human skin cells to provide significant anti-ageing and brightening benefits without causing irritation.
Outperforming traditional extracts
While the cosmetics industry has long used orchid extracts for their antioxidant properties, this new research shifts the focus from simple chemical extracts to sophisticated biological delivery systems.
The researchers isolated the vesicles from the flowers and stems of the white Phalaenopsis orchid using advanced filtration techniques.
It was discovered that the vesicles averaged 98 nanometres in size. This ultra-small scale allowed them to be absorbed more efficiently than many traditional cosmetic ingredients.
During laboratory testing, the researchers labelled the vesicles with fluorescent dye and watched as human keratinocytes — the primary cells in the outer layer of skin — absorbed the orchid particles within 24 hours.
This confirmed that the plant vesicles could communicate directly with human skin cells, potentially delivering active ingredients exactly where they would be needed most.
Protecting skin from environmental stress
One of the most significant findings in the study is related to oxidative stress, a leading cause of premature skin ageing.
External environmental factors, such as ultraviolet radiation (UV) from sunlight, significantly affect skin health by inducing the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). These molecules, which include hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl radicals, trigger autophagy and damage the intracellular structural proteins that keep skin looking youthful.
The researchers treated human skin cells with hydrogen peroxide to simulate this environmental damage and test the orchid’s resilience. They found that pre-treating cells with the orchid vesicles significantly improved cell survival rates. At the highest concentrations tested, the vesicles helped the skin cells resist toxic effects of hydrogen peroxide.
Specifically, the treatment increased cell viability from roughly 53% in the damaged group to over 66% in the protected group.
This suggested that the ingredient could serve as a powerful protective shield in daily skin care products like serums or day creams, helping skin maintain its integrity against the rigours of urban pollution and sun exposure.
A natural skin-brightening alternative
In addition to its protective qualities, the study highlighted Exorigin OR’s ability to inhibit melanin production.
Hyperpigmentation and dark spots remain major concerns for skin care consumers, particularly in Asia where brightening is a core category. The researchers tested the orchid vesicles on melanocytes using a compound called IBMX to stimulate the production of melanin.
The results showed that the orchid vesicles effectively suppressed the production of melanin in a dose-dependent manner. Interestingly, the researchers noted that the vesicles worked at much lower concentrations in the brightening trials than they did in the cell protection trials.
This concentration-dependent difference suggested that melanocytes may be particularly sensitive to the signals the orchid vesicles carried.
Further genetic analysis revealed that the vesicles achieved this by “turning down” a specific gene involved in making skin pigment. While most skin brightening products only treat the surface process, these particles work at a deeper level by changing the internal instructions the skin uses to create dark spots.
The researchers speculated that certain factors within the vesicles may interfere with how skin cells read the instructions for making pigment, providing a more sophisticated approach to evening out skin tone.
Unlocking the biological delivery mechanism
The researchers also checked if the effect was simply due to common chemicals found in orchids, such as gallic acid, p-coumaric acid, or quercitrin. They estimated the levels of these individual compounds within the vesicles and compared them to existing bioactive data.
It was found that the concentrations of these chemicals in the vesicles were far too low to account for the results on their own — some were over 200 times lower than the levels usually required to inhibit melanin.
This discovery represented a major breakthrough, as it suggested that the exosome structure provided a unique biological advantage. By encapsulating these compounds within a lipid bilayer, the orchid could be delivering a synergistic cocktail of nutrients more powerful than the sum of its parts.
Furthermore, the researchers believe that microRNA enclosed within the vesicles may be the “secret weapon” that would allow the plant particles to communicate across the species barrier and influence human cell behaviour.
Safety and market potential
The study put the orchid vesicles through rigorous testing using reconstructed human skin and eye models to test for safety. These advanced lab-grown tissues mimicked human reactions without the need for animal testing, making the data highly relevant for regulatory compliance and ethical branding.
The tests confirmed that Exorigin OR was non-irritant. Even at the highest concentrations tested, the ingredient did not harm the viability of the reconstructed skin or cornea tissues.
This safety profile, combined with the green appeal of a plant-derived ingredient from a renowned orchid species, could make it a strong candidate for brands looking to innovate in the clean beauty and cosmeceutical sectors.
The researchers said these orchid-derived vesicles represented a safe and effective bioactive ingredient that could bridge the gap between nature and high-tech science.
They also suggested that future studies could look into the specific microRNA inside the vesicles to understand exactly how they interact with human genes over longer periods.
Source: Cosmetics
“Unveiling the Potential of Plant-Derived Exosome-like Extracellular Vesicles from Phalaenopsis aphrodite as Skin-Conditioning Ingredients in Cosmetic Applications”
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010015
Authors: Chuang Kai-an, et al
