Innovation in the skin care sector is increasingly defined by the marriage of high-performance delivery systems and environmental responsibility.
The research, led by Silpakorn University, has introduced a solid-state delivery platform that can replace non-biodegradable substrates with a water-soluble polymer matrix.
By embedding kojic acid and liquorice extract within liposomes (microscopic fat bubbles), the team created a product that dissolves directly into the skin, leaving no residue and requiring no rinsing.
Traditional sheet masks are a staple of the beauty market, yet they face mounting criticism for their environmental impact, as most are made from single-use plastics or non-recyclable fibres that end up in landfills.
Furthermore, the aqueous nature of these masks often requires high preservative loads, which can irritate sensitive skin.
The researchers in this study noted that while hydrogel or sleeping masks could offer some improvements, they often suffered from “product loss through transference to bedding” or “inefficient delivery of active ingredients”.
The dissolvable mask developed by them functions as a precision-dosed system. It uses a blend of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP), alongside hyaluronic acid and glycerine. This matrix remains solid until it touches moist skin, at which point it creates a highly concentrated interface that pushes active ingredients deep into the epidermis.
The power of liposomal encapsulation
The researchers’ choice of active ingredients — kojic acid and liquorice extract — targeted the complex process of melanogenesis.
Kojic acid is a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor, while licochalcone A, the primary marker in liquorice extract, provides anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits. However, both compounds are notoriously difficult to deliver effectively as they are unstable and penetrate the skin barrier poorly.
To solve this, the team used a thin-film hydration method to create liposomes with a mean particle size of 66 to 72 nanometres. These nanocarriers shielded the active ingredients from degradation.
In lab tests, the liposomal versions of these extracts showed significantly higher antioxidant activity than their “free” counterparts. Specifically, the liposomal liquorice extract was found to be nearly twice as effective at scavenging free radicals as the standard extract.
Engineering the perfect dissolve
The development process involved a complex balancing act of mechanical strength and solubility. Using a Design of Experiments (DOE) approach, the researchers tested various concentrations of polymers and secondary actives, such as niacinamide, panthenol, and amino acids.
The goal was to produce a film that was strong enough to handle without tearing, but capable of dissolving within 15 minutes. The team found that panthenol acted as a crucial plasticiser, reducing brittleness and increasing user comfort.
The study confirmed that the optimised film dissolved within approximately 15 minutes on moist skin and showed favourable handling properties.
This rapid disintegration ensured that the high-concentration payload of skin-brightening agents was delivered efficiently without the sticky or greasy residues common to sleeping masks.
Proven results in seven days
To test the real-world efficacy of the mask, a clinical study was conducted with 24 healthy volunteers over a one-week period.
Participants applied the mask to their forearms once daily after dampening the skin with a water spray. The results showed a statistically significant improvement in two key areas — hydration, and melanin index.
In terms of hydration, participants’ skin moisture levels rose significantly, likely due to the occlusive nature of the film that prevented water loss.
At the same time, a measurable reduction in skin pigment was recorded after seven days, confirming that the liposomal actives had successfully reached the melanocytes in the deeper layers of the skin.
Importantly, the study reported zero cases of irritation. In fact, the erythema index — a measure of skin redness — decreased during the trial. This suggested the mask had a calming effect, potentially due to the anti-inflammatory properties of the liquorice extract.
A shift toward clean and green solutions
For the skin care market, this innovation represents an opportunity to align with consumer demands for clean beauty and zero waste.
The dissolvable format could eliminate the need and demand for plastic-lined sachets and physical mask waste, while the use of biodegradable polymers could help address the microplastic crisis.
The authors concluded that the liposomal dissolvable mask offered an effective, well-tolerated, and eco-friendly approach, making it a viable candidate for high-end cosmeceutical lines.
“Although this was an open-label pilot, the performance data was strong enough to warrant further development into commercial applications. For manufacturers, the solid-state format also offers potential benefits in shelf life and stability, as the actives are kept dry until the moment of use.”
Source: Cosmetics
“Dissolvable Face Mask with Liposomal Licorice Extract and Kojic Acid: An Innovative Approach for Skin Brightening”
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010021
Authors: Theerada Taesotikul, et al.
