According to the Swiss-Dutch company, China remains a highly strategic market, where local consumers have shown a clear shift towards more professionalised and science-driven decision-making in recent years.
At the upcoming Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) trade show, dsm-firmenich will be showcasing several new skin care solutions, including two biotech-derived human milk oligosaccharides (HMO) ingredients, GLYCARE SK COMFORT and GLYCARE SK RENEW, which have been permitted for use in China since October 2025 and December 2025 respectively.
As modern skin is increasingly caught in a cycle of sensitivity caused by daily exposure to UV rays and pollution, while aesthetic procedures can weaken the skin barrier and lead to inflammation, redness and delayed recovery, it is imperative to enhance skin resilience.
This is where dsm-firmenich believes lies a “powerful opportunity” for GLYCARE SK COMFORT and GLYCARE SK RENEW to translate early‑life biological intelligence into skin health solutions.
“In the very first moments of life, nature has already solved the challenge of resilience. Through a complete system of nutrition, immunity, and support passed from mother to child, HMOs train the body to sense threats, regulate stress responses, and adapt to a demanding environment. They programme the resilience that equips newborns to recover and thrive under pressure.
“Through advanced biotechnology and precision fermentation, we replicate the exact HMO structures found in mother’s milk without any human‑derived materials, making them safe, stable, traceable, and suitable for cosmetic applications,” Goede Schueler, Vice President of Marketing and Sustainability for Beauty & Care at dsm-firmenich, told CosmeticsDesign-Asia.
Designed for sensitive and compromised skin, GLYCARE SK RENEW is said to support skin resilience through a dual action on inflammation and microbiome balance to help strengthen the barrier and support natural recovery. Notably, it has been shortlisted for the PCHi Fountain Awards this year.
GLYCARE SK COMFORT, on the other hand, serves as a daily “skin guardian”, improving hydration while bolstering long-lasting barrier resilience and soothing mild sensitivity.
“With the GLYCARE SK range, we are only at the beginning. HMOs have the potential to become a foundational platform for next‑generation skin care.”
Emotional skin care
With rising environmental challenges and growing interest in holistic wellness, emotional skin care is not a passing trend but a long‑term growth direction for the Asian beauty market, said Schueler.
“Emotional skin care is absolutely a long‑term need across Asia. Climate warming and pollution continue to amplify skin stress, triggering neurogenic inflammation, barrier fragility, and sensory discomfort — all of which heighten emotional tension. As a result, consumers increasingly seek solutions that support both skin and mood.”
In response, dsm‑firmenich has launched a climate‑adaptive neurocosmetic ingredient named ALPAFLOR NEUROSOOTH, which is specifically developed to counteract skin and emotional stress caused by rising temperatures, pollution, and urban heat.
Derived from the adaptogenic Alpine botanical Scutellaria alpina, it harnesses the plant’s natural defense mechanisms to reinforce the skin’s ability to cope with environmental pressure.
By acting on the skin-brain axis, the ingredient reduces stress signals by lowering key neuro‑inflammatory mediators linked to redness, itching and discomfort, while boosting feel‑good signals to decrease skin reactivity and provide instant soothing and emotional comfort.
“Today’s consumers are moving far beyond ‘relaxing fragrance’. They want sensory pleasure plus science — products that feel immediately comforting yet also deliver measurable soothing, stress‑relief, and sensitivity‑reduction benefits.
“The rapid rise of neurocosmetics reinforces this shift. Ingredients that modulate neurotransmitters and neuro‑inflammatory pathways are becoming wanted tools to help skin stay resilient under climate stress and simultaneously support emotional well‑being.”
Ambitions in China
One of dsm-firmenich’s major focuses is leveraging its innovation platforms and working with its customers to develop next‑generation solutions aligned with key market drivers.
“As one of the most important industry platforms in China, PCHi provides us with a valuable opportunity to engage deeply with the ecosystem players,” Schueler shared.
Through the exhibition, the company aims to gain deeper insights into the real needs and emerging behaviours of Chinese consumers, and present its advanced scientific capabilities and innovative solutions across skin, sun and hair categories.
At the same time, it is looking to co‑create with its customers, particularly in applying its perfumery expertise to deliver holistic fragrance and beauty solutions that elevate consumer products in the Chinese market.
“Moving forward, we will continue shaping the future together with our customers, creating sustainable and scientifically proven solutions that positively contribute to people’s lives — by enhancing their physical and emotional well-being — in China and the rest of the world.”
PCHi 2026 will take place from March 18 to 20 at Hangzhou Grand Convention & Exhibition Center. For more information, visit www.pchi-china.com/en.
CosmeticsDesign-Asia is proud to support PCHi 2026 as a Media Partner.
