Skin science: Latest stories on cosmetics science and formulation

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Dive into our latest stories on formulation and science, featuring research on peptide-drug conjugate technology as well as various botanical extracts.

Peptide-drug conjugate technology paves the way for advanced anti-photoageing solutions

Researchers from China and Singapore have developed a novel cosmetic ingredient that merges a collagen-mimicking peptide with caffeic acid, which has shown to significantly outperform traditional anti-ageing peptides.

The ingredient, called Caffeoyl hexapeptide-9 (CH-9), is a hybrid molecule that offers superior stability, skin penetration, and clinical results in restoring skin firmness.

Conducted by Shenzhen Winkey Technology, P&G Singapore Innovation Center, and Nanyang Technological University, the study demonstrated how peptide-drug conjugate (PDC) technology could solve long-standing hurdles in skin care formulation, such as poor peptide absorption and antioxidants’ chemical instability.

Dissolvable mask with liposomal liquorice, kojic acid could solve sheet mask dilemma

Researchers in Thailand have developed a biodegradable, dissolvable face mask that uses nanotechnology to tackle hyperpigmentation while eliminating waste associated with traditional sheet masks.

The study, led by Silpakorn University, has introduced a solid-state delivery platform that can replace non-biodegradable substrates with a water-soluble polymer matrix.

By embedding kojic acid and liquorice extract within liposomes, the team created a product that dissolves directly into the skin, leaving no residue and requiring no rinsing.

Traditional sheet masks are a staple of the beauty market, yet they face mounting criticism for their environmental impact. Furthermore, the aqueous nature of these masks often requires high preservative loads, which can irritate sensitive skin.

Japanese researchers identify skin stem cell-boosting, anti-sagging plant extract

New research from Japan suggests that physiologically active compounds derived from Chloranthus quadrifolius are promising candidates for cosmetic applications aimed at skin regeneration and anti-ageing.

A study conducted by scientists from Albion Co Ltd and the Health Sciences University of Hokkaido revealed that the perennial plant and its unique compounds could activate skin-related stem cells while preventing them from turning into fat.

These findings point toward a dual-action ingredient that both rejuvenates the skin and maintains facial firmness.

Taiwanese orchid extract shows promise for skin protection, brightening

Researchers in Taiwan have discovered that exosome-like vesicles derived from the Phalaenopsis aphrodite orchid, commonly known as “Taiwanese Grandma”, could offer a new natural solution for skin protection and brightening.

It marks the first time scientists have successfully isolated the tiny biological packages from this specific orchid species to test their potential in high-end skin care formulations.

The study was conducted by researchers at Pegavision Corp, FacialBeau International Corp, Industrial Technology Research Institute, and National Chung-Hsing University.

Himalayan seed waste provides new natural solution for green cosmetic stabilisers

Residue from the seed of the Prinsepia utilis Royle plant can be repurposed as a natural stabiliser for green emulsions, say researchers in China.

While the plant is known for its edible oil, the extraction process typically leaves behind a substantial amount of solid residue that were discarded as agricultural waste.

Beyond its role as a stabiliser, the researchers found that Prinsepia utilis Royle seed powder was naturally rich in polyphenols and polysaccharides, and can add significant therapeutic value to cosmetic formulations.