The study, conducted by Syoung Cosmetics Manufacturing Co Ltd, revealed that BGE could do more than just mask the signs of ageing. It also appeared to work at a cellular level to repair DNA damage and restore the structural integrity of the skin.
Additionally, the researchers found that the extract helped skin cells known as fibroblasts regain their ability to multiply and produce essential proteins even after heavy sun damage.
Chronic photoageing remains one of the biggest challenges for the skin care market. While many ingredients claim to protect the skin, few demonstrate the ability to reverse the complex molecular breakdown caused by long-term ultraviolet (UV) radiation.
This study suggested that black ginseng — created through a specific steaming and drying process — contained enhanced bioactive components that were more effective than standard ginseng.
Restoring the skin’s building blocks
The research team focused on how BGE affected collagen, the protein responsible for skin elasticity and strength. When skin is exposed to UV rays over a long period, the balance between collagen production and degradation is broken. The skin begins to sag and wrinkle, as it cannot keep up with the damage.
In the laboratory, researchers exposed human dermal fibroblasts to repeated UV radiation to mimic chronic sun damage. This process significantly reduced the levels of several types of collagen, specifically COL5A1 and COL7A1, which are vital for keeping the layers of the skin stuck together.
However, when these damaged cells were treated with BGE, the results were significant. The BGE treatment restored the expression of these key collagens to levels comparable to healthy, non-irradiated cells.
The extract also successfully lowered the levels of MMP1, an enzyme that normally eats away at collagen after sun exposure, while boosting TIMP1, a natural protector that prevents collagen breakdown.
A deeper look at DNA repair
What set this study apart was the use of advanced proteomics, a method that allows scientists to see exactly which proteins are changing inside the cell. The data showed that BGE did not just fix the surface, but it also reprogrammed the cell’s internal machinery to survive stress.
The researchers discovered that BGE activated pathways related to genomic stability. One of the most striking findings was the extract’s impact on telomeres, the protective caps at the end of DNA strands that usually shorten as people age or face environmental stress. The treatment increased the expression of a gene called POT1, which protects these DNA ends, by more than double.
Furthermore, a comet assay — a test that visualises DNA damage as a tail behind the cell nucleus — showed that cells treated with BGE had much shorter ‘tails’ than those left untreated after UV exposure. This indicated that the extract could help the skin cells repair broken DNA strands more efficiently.
Rejuvenating ‘zombie’ cells
Sun damage often turns healthy skin cells into senescent cells. These are often called “zombie” cells because they stop dividing but do not die, instead releasing inflammatory signals that damage surrounding healthy tissue.
The study found that UV radiation caused a widespread increase in these aged cells. When the researchers applied the BGE, the number of senescent cells dropped dramatically. The cells regained their proliferative capacity, which means they started dividing and renewing themselves again.
The authors noted that the extract also boosted SIRT1, a protein often called the “longevity gene” because of its role in cellular health and stress resistance. This suggested that BGE could provide a multi-level shield for the skin, protecting it from the inside out.
Implications for beauty market
For cosmetic chemists and product developers, these findings provide a scientific foundation for using black ginseng in high-end anti-ageing lines.
The study highlighted that the unique processing of black ginseng created a higher concentration of ginsenosides and polyphenols than would be found in white or red ginseng.
The researchers used a concentration of 0.03mg/mL in their most successful tests, showing that even small amounts of the extract could trigger significant reparative actions. This could make it a cost-effective yet high-performance bioactive ingredient for serums, creams, and sun-recovery products.
While the results represented a breakthrough for in-vitro research, the team acknowledged that more work was needed. The next steps would involve testing the extract on more complex models such as 3D skin tissues or in clinical trials with human volunteers to see how these cellular changes would translate to visible wrinkle reduction in real-world conditions.
As the demand for natural, evidence-based ingredients continues to grow, black ginseng offers a bridge between traditional herbal medicine and modern molecular science. Its ability to handle the ramifications of UVB irradiation makes it a timely addition to the global anti-photo-ageing toolkit.
The researchers concluded: “These findings provide experimental support for the potential application of BGE as a bioactive ingredient in anti-photoageing and skin care development, while further studies are warranted to establish active components, validate mechanisms in vivo, and assess long-term safety.”
Source: Cosmetics
“Protective Mechanisms of Black Ginseng Extract on Collagen Synthesis in Chronic Photoaging”
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010033
Authors: Liu Yue, et al
