Conducted by researchers at Shanghai Huiwen Biotech Co Ltd and Shanghai Polytechnic University, the study revealed that a specialised extract of the plant worked by targeting the biological pathways responsible for follicle ageing and hormonal damage.
The team investigated the mechanisms behind the Cacumen Platycladi extract (CPE) and its impact on human dermal papilla cells (HDPCs), the “command centres” for hair growth.
The researchers found that the extract worked through a multi-targeted approach, inhibiting the enzyme 5alpha-reductase (the primary driver of androgenetic alopecia) while protecting cells from oxidative stress and activating critical growth signalling pathways.
At the heart of hair biology are the human dermal papilla cells. These cells reside at the base of the hair follicle and dictate the transition between the growth, transition, and resting phases of the hair cycle.
Dysfunction in these cells, often caused by hormonal sensitivity or environmental stress, leads to follicle miniaturisation and eventual hair loss.
The researchers focused on how CPE interacted with these vital cells. Their findings suggested that the extract did not just provide a surface-level fix but interacted with the PI3K/Akt/mTOR signalling axis.
This pathway is a central regulator of cell proliferation and metabolism. By upregulating this pathway, CPE helped sustain the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle, ensuring that follicles remained active and productive for longer periods.
A targeted extraction process for maximum potency
To ensure the highest concentration of bioactive compounds, the scientists developed a specific gradient extraction method. By using a sequence of 1,3-butanediol, ethanol, and water, they were able to selectively pull different molecules from the dried leaves and branches of the Platycladus orientalis plant.
The resulting extract was enriched with flavonoids, specifically quercitrin, myricetin and myricitrin.
Analysis confirmed that these compounds were the dominant active ingredients. Quercitrin is particularly noted for its ability to enhance mitochondrial energy metabolism within hair cells, effectively giving the follicles the energy they need to produce hair shafts.
Meanwhile, myricetin provides the antioxidant support necessary to survive the harsh environment of a stressed scalp.
Neutralising the drivers of hair thinning
One of the most significant findings was the extract’s ability to inhibit 5alpha-reductase. This enzyme converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), the hormone responsible for shrinking hair follicles in male and female pattern baldness. In the study, CPE demonstrated a clear dose-dependent inhibition of this enzyme.
Furthermore, the research addressed the silent contributor to hair loss — oxidative stress. The scalp is frequently exposed to UV radiation and pollutants, which generate reactive oxygen species (ROS). These molecules cause follicular ischaemia or a lack of blood flow, leading to follicle degradation.
When HDPCs were pre-treated with CPE and then exposed to oxidative stress, the extract significantly reduced ROS levels. At a concentration of 2.5mg/mL, intracellular damage was reduced by over 20%, proving that the botanical active could be a protective shield for the follicle.
Reversing signals of follicle ageing
The study also highlighted the extract’s impact on collagen type XVII (COL17), a transmembrane protein essential for maintaining hair follicle stem cells. As we age, COL17 levels typically drop, which is considered a primary signal of follicle exhaustion.
Using immunofluorescence detection, the team found that CPE significantly promoted the expression of COL17 in a dose-dependent manner. At higher concentrations, the promotion rate reached a staggering 98.25%.
By maintaining these collagen levels, the extract helped anchor the follicle and prevent premature shedding that leads to thinning hair.
Clinical trial confirms real-world efficacy
To bridge the gap between laboratory results and consumer experience, the researchers conducted a 12-week double-blind, randomised, placebo-controlled clinical trial. The study involved 70 volunteers between the ages of 40 and 60, all of whom were experiencing measurable hair loss.
Participants applied a scalp serum containing 8% CPE daily. The results were measured through three primary metrics — a 60-second hair combing test to count lost strands, local hair density imaging, and overall global hair density grading.
At four weeks, the CPE group already showed a significant decrease in hair loss count compared to their baseline. At eight weeks, the difference between the CPE group and the placebo group became statistically significant, with the former showing markedly better hair retention.
At 12 weeks, participants using the extract saw a significant increase in local hair density. In fact, 76% of the participants in the CPE group showed an improved overall hair density score.
Crucially, the study reported a “favourable safety profile”. Throughout the three-month period, no participants reported scalp irritation, allergic reactions, or changes in hair texture. This makes it a highly attractive ingredient for brands looking to offer medical-grade results without the side-effect profile of pharmaceutical interventions.
Implications for global hair care market
CPE’s ability to promote vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) is particularly noteworthy. VEGF stimulates the growth of new blood vessels around the follicle, improving nutrient delivery. This bio-stimulatory effect is often what consumers look for in premium scalp densifying serums.
The researchers concluded that the extraction process they developed provided a reliable way to harness the multi-targeted power of this traditional medicine.
“The results of this study successfully demonstrate the effectiveness of the extraction method and further validate its multi-targeted mechanism of action in hair loss prevention,” the authors stated.
As the industry moves towards cleaner and more sustainable ingredients, validated botanical extracts like CPE offers a bridge between ancient herbal wisdom and modern dermatological science, and could provide the scientific evidence required for high-performance marketing claims.
Source: Cosmetics
“Evaluation of Cacumen Platycladi Extract for Hair Loss Prevention: Mechanisms, Efficacy, and Clinical Application”
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010028
Authors: Bai Xue-Dong, et al
