A multi-herbal formula with a history spanning centuries, Gongjin-dan (GJD) is widely used in South Korea and China for managing fatigue-related symptoms, improving overall health, and promoting longevity.
It is made using four main ingredients, namely the root of Angelica gigas (dang gui), the fruit of Cornus officinalis (Japanese cornel), the antler of Cervus nippon (sika deer), and the preputial gland of musk deer.
In line with the increasing demand for cosmetics that do not use animal-derived raw materials, Korean researchers drew inspiration from GJD and derived a mixed fraction from five herbs — dang gui root, fruit of Japanese cornel, fruiting body of Ganoderma lucidum (reishi), aerial part of Thymus vulgaris (garden thyme), and the root of Asparagus cochinchinensis (Chinese asparagus).
The mixed fraction (GEF) enriched in glycopeptides and glycoproteins was obtained utilising enzyme-based extraction and chemical purification methods.
It was then evaluated for its in vitro skin anti-ageing properties on human fibroblasts, keratinocytes (HaCaT), and adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (ADMSCs).
Compared to a generally prepared mixed extract, this fraction contained high proportions of conditionally essential amino acids or CEAAs (51%), and acidic/basic amino acids (67.7%) — which are essential components for strengthening the skin layers against ageing.
One of the things that the researchers investigated was the fraction’s ability to inhibit the loss of dermal components due to extrinsic factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) irradiation.
It was found that matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene expression was inhibited (18-28%) and fibrillin-1 protein (23-37%) was restored.
MMP-1, or collagenase-1, is a gene and enzyme that plays a key role in collagen degradation, and its activity is crucial for body processes such as wound healing, while fibrillin-1 is a major protein in the elastic fibre network that provides structural support and elasticity to various tissues, including dermis layer of the skin.
Additionally, the effects of GEF on dermal and hypodermal components, whose production decreases with age, were examined.
The results showed that the expression of collagen genes COL1A1 and COL4A1, HAS2 (enzyme crucial for synthesising hyaluronic acid), and adipogenesis (formation of fat cells) were enhanced by 25-35%, 22-213%, and 15%, respectively.
“These findings demonstrate the potential of GEF as a raw material for skin anti-ageing and reinforce the scientific evidence supporting a traditional medicine with a long history,” the authors wrote.
Protein power
Glycopeptides and glycoproteins are peptides and proteins in which oligosaccharide chains are covalently bonded to amino acid side chains, respectively.
In plants, most proteins of the extracellular and endomembrane compartments are glycosylated forms, and the glycosylation of proteins has a major influence on their biological activities.
Although difficult to separate, purify and identify, glycopeptides and glycoproteins are a dominant category in the field of biopharmaceuticals because of their strong effects.
In the cosmetics industry, the development of materials for anti-ageing is centred on plant-derived glycoproteins.
A key characteristic of GEF is that it contains a large amount of CEAAs, which can be produced in the body but are more important under abnormal conditions, such as illness or stress, as their synthesis becomes insufficient and limited.
In particular, glutamic acid and arginine have been reported to significantly promote the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and are necessary for the regeneration of damaged skin.
As a traditional medicine, GJD remains high in demand — despite the rarity of animal sources such as deer antler and musk, and the dearth in scientific research into it.
“The present study is significant in that it scientifically reinterprets a traditional medicine and suggests an effective raw material for skin anti-ageing in the cosmetics industry.
“As a follow-up to this study, it is necessary to further explore the use of purified glycopeptides or glycoproteins, and understand their mechanisms in depth,” the researchers concluded.
Source: Cosmetics
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030091
“Skin Anti-Aging Properties of the Glycopeptide- and Glycoprotein-Enriched Fraction from a Cosmetic Variation of the Longevity Medicine, Gongjin-Dan”
Authors: Gwang Jin Lee, et al
