Unipex launches whitening active for cosmetics

B-White is a biomimetic of TGF-B (Transforming Growth Factor Beta), a protein that has been noted for its role in skin pigmentation, according to Unipex.

“It has demonstrated an inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis,” ​ Isabelle Lacasse, director of product line management at Unipex told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.

First active ingredient to affect MITF pathway ​

According to Unipex, traditional whitening actives act only upon tyrosinase, an enzyme which is involved in the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color.

In contrast, B-White also affects the MITF (Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor) pathway to regulate the actions that cause pigmentation, and is, the company claims, the first active ingredient to do so.

“By having a unique inhibitory action on the MITF cellular pathway, B-White can modulate both the constitutive (natural skin color) and facultative (due to UV exposure) pigmentation,” ​ said Lacasse.

Reducing MITF activity as well as that of tyrosinase helps B-White to reduce melanin, explained Lacasse, as “B-White binds to the TGF-B receptor on melanocytes. This specific binding introduces a intracellular cascade which leads to a reduction of MITF activity.” ​

In-vivo ​clinical trials​

In vivo​ clinical studies were carried out on the ingredient involving 23 female Asian volunteers aged between 33-55 with at least one hyper-pigmented spot. Volunteers applied a cream containing B-White for a period of 4 and 8 weeks.

According to Unipex, 100 per cent of subjects reported fewer age spots, and clearer skin and a more uniform complexion were also noted.

Unipex is targeting formulators making skin lightening products in both the Asian markets, where skin lightening is a booming sector, and Western nations where age spots are common amongst a rapidly aging population.

“B-White will be a perfect product in Asia and Far East targeting consumers who want their skin tone to appear as light as possible. For Western markets, the target will be baby boomers and older women who have uneven pigmentation and skin texture caused by years of sun damage and fluctuating hormones,” ​said Lacasse.