Super hydrator: Kao develops new formulation that targets rough and dry skin
Developed by the Japanese firm’s Skin Care Laboratory, Material Science Laboratory, and Analytical Science Laboratory, the formulation is a combination of ‘large water-content alpha-gel’ and a OXP-SI polymer.
The micro-scaling problem
The combined formula was found to be absorbed into regions with micro-scaling. According to Kao, micro-scaling is a “condition in which the horny layer skin is thinly exfoliated in pieces”.
According to a survey conducted by Kao, an increasingly large number of Japanese women now suffer from dry skin. Among them, more than 90% were found to have micro-scaling on the skin surface.
Typically, corneocytes on the surface of healthy smooth skin show moderate adherence to each other and form a well-ordered structure.
Micro-scaling occurs when skin is rough or damaged, making the skin susceptible to external factors.
An effective combination
‘Large water-content α-gel’ was developed by Kao and features a structure that is modeled on that of intercellular lipids of the corneocyte and provides a high water-holding capacity.
OXP-SI polymer was selected for its ability to form a flexible membrane and its compatiblity with ‘large water-content alpha-gel’.
Additionally, it is able to selectively adhere to areas of micro-scaling for a rapid improvement in skin surface condition, said Kao.
The combination of the two resulted in a formula that was found to improve the skin surface condition soon after beginning applications and selectively adherence was shown in areas of micro-scaling.
The formula features a structure that is modeled on that of intercellular lipids of the corneocyte and provides a high water-holding capacity, making it ideal for moisturising areas with rough, dry skin.
Unlike conventional formulations, which disperses polymers in an aqueous condition, the new formula forms a unique complex surrounding the ‘large water-content α-gel’ before dispersing in the aqueous phase.
According to Kao research, the condition of dry skin saw significant improvement from the second day of application, making it ideal for consumers who now want to see skin care results in as little as three days.
“Based on these findings, it was concluded that rough skin surfaces had smoothness repaired early, as the absorbed complex functioned to re-adhere regions with scaling to maintain a pseudo-healthy skin state,” said Kao.
The results of this research will be presented at the 58th Annual Meeting of the Japan Oil Chemists’ Society and Okinawa Colloids 2019.