Flawless solution: Heure engineers delivery system that interacts with microbiome to inhibit melanin production

Heure recently marked the debut of the flawless range with the Flawless Serum (SGD190 / USD141). It claims to improve skin brightening and luminance by 44.3%, 100% and 111% in four, eight and 12 weeks respectively.

It is able to achieve this with SPHR, the company’s proprietary encapsulated transdermal delivery system that it spent 10 years developing.

According to the firm, this encapsulation technology works as a ‘drone’​ that targets specific areas of the skin to deliver actives where they are really needed. This “​radically increases the speed and efficacy of penetration of key active ingredients into targeted areas homogeneously.”​

The core ingredient is the SPHR-encapsulated diglucosyl gallic acid (DGA), which the company describes as a “new-generation​ melanin regulator”.​

The capsules are able to detect and disperse melanocytes found across the epidermis while preventing the formation of further melanin pigments in the basal layer.

“All our skin microbiomes differ with different bacteria on our skin. But they all produce one similar enzyme, so we have engineered our Flawless SPHRs to interact with that enzyme and activate upon that interaction,”​ explained Han Lim, managing director of Heure.

SPHR delivers the ingredients to the basal layer of the epidermis, where melanocytes are located.

“DGA converts into [trihydroxy benzoic acid], a natural inhibitor of tyrosine. Basically, what we want to do is hijack the production of melanin at this core level,”​ said Lim.

Furthermore, the company tested the serum on 50 individuals across genders and skin types for 48 hours and found it to be safe, gentle, and effective.

Uncompromised protection

At the same time, the serum reduces free radical and UV damage to the skin. The firm claims that the serum's anti-oxidising prowess is four times better compared to vitamin C.

“When we go out into the sun, we use umbrellas to protect us from the harmful UV rays. Our skin, amazingly, works the same way. It produces melanin to form a protective cap over your skin cells, which is why skin pigments look like caps if you view them through a microscope,”​ explained Lim

“While we don’t want melanin to form, we cannot compromise the protection. We have formulated Flawless ingredients to do both. It mimics the benefit of melanin pigments while reducing melanin pigments.”​

Huere debuted with Ageless in 2020, a line-up of six products. CosmeticsDesign-Asia​ first reported​ that the firm was scheduled to unveil its sophomore launch back in 2022 after facing multiple delays related to issues such as logistics.

The company began developing Flawless the same time they started with Ageless to tap into the lucrative skin brightening market in Asia.

“It’s still the fastest-growing skin care category, which is why we put so much investment to the R&D, and why we put up with all the [obstacles]. And the results have been outstanding,”​ said Lim

The brand is backed by Estetica Group, a Singapore-based beauty company. The firm operates a chain of beauty salons and has developed brands such as ést.lab and Verdure.