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Deriving both sensorially-appealing and anti-aging efficacy from natural origins ingredient blend

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Shanghai Technical Center, Ashland LLC.

From the beginning of human history, consumers have always pursued longer life span and youthful appearance. Scientists are eager to decode the mystery between the ingredients and anti-aging efficacy of personal care products, hoping to find safer, more natural, sustainable and effective solutions that fit current trends in cosmetics. More and more consumers and "skintellectuals" (people who are educated on the ingredients, benefits and science of skincare products and aware of their skin’s needs) read the ingredient list on the cosmetic product labels and try to look for effective, safe and natural ingredients known to them.

To satisfy the above consumers’ needs, a proprietary natural ingredient blend was developed. This ingredient blend with > 98% natural content (ISO 16128-2:2017), contains peptides from hydrolyzed marine collagen, red seaweed extract, natural yeast fermented erythritol and RSPO (The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) glycerin.

Ex vivo human skin biopsy

Collagens are essential to provide the skin with tensile strength, elasticity and skin firmness. As we age, production of various collagens in the skin is reduced. The DEJ (dermal-epidermal junction) structure is flattened and results in collagen fiber loss, leading to fine lines and wrinkles, moisture loss and sagging skin over time. There are 4 types of collagen in the skin: collagen I is the most abundant collagen in the dermis as fibrillar collagen, provides skin strength and integrity; collagen III is always found together with type I collagen, and related with skin regeneration and dermis repair; collagen IV forms a network structure to connect the dermis and epidermis and makes DEJ structure stable; while collagen XVII is a transmembrane collagen, which mediates adhesion of keratinocytes to the underlying DEJ membrane.

The level of collagen IV and XVII were analyzed by immunostaining (Volocity* image analysis) in ex vivo​ human skin biopsy model, treated with/without 2% blend for 16 hours. As shown in Fig.1, the active treated ex vivo​ skin showed better green immunostaining, which represents increased expression of collagen IV and XVII in DEJ structure.

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The level of collagen I and III were analyzed by immunostaining (Volocity* image analysis) in ex vivo​ human skin biopsy model, treated with/without 1% blend, twice per day, for 48 hours. As shown in Fig.2, active treated ex vivo​ skin showed better green immunostaining, which represents increased expression of collagen I and III in the dermis.

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Skin moisturization & barrier function

The clinical studies were conducted in Ashland Shanghai laboratory. Twenty-four subjects from Shanghai with dry skin were recruited. The samples with 5% blend and the placebo were applied separately on the forearm at a dosage of 2mg/cm2​. The skin hydration and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) were measured at T0, T1 and T6 (hours) with Corneometer CM 825 and Tewameter TM 300, double-blind tests, and the statistical significance were analyzed by Student’s T-test (one-tailed) or Wilcoxon test (one-tailed).

As shown in Fig.3, the formula with 5% blend significantly increased skin water content by more than 133% and 68% at 1 hour and 6 hours after application, with high and directional significance. Fig.4 showed that the formula with 5% blend reduced the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and repaired the skin barrier function compared to the placebo.

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Skin wrinkle reduction and firmness improvement

Thirty subjects (35-59 years old, 15 males and 15 females) from Shanghai with wrinkled and sagging skin were recruited for half face control, double-blind test. The samples with 5% blend and placebo were applied separately on each side of the face at a dosage of 2mg/cm2​. The full face and eye zone crow’s feet wrinkle images were taken at D0, D7 & D28 (days) by Visia CR instrument. The images were analyzed by image software, and the statistical significance were analyzed by Student’s T-test (one-tailed) or Wilcoxon test (one-tailed).

Statistical analysis of Visia CR images showed that the crow’s feet (wrinkle area) significantly decreased in the half face treated with 5% blend versus the half face treated with placebo on day 7 and day 28 as shown in Fig.5. Meanwhile, the wrinkle depth decreased, and the skin smoothness increased as well (data not shown).

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In addition, Cutometer MPA580 was used to measure the skin elasticity of candidates using the formula with/without the blend for 14 days and 28 days. As an example, the skin's viscous resilience Q3 increased 88% after 7 days and 194% after 28 days with statistically significant difference which demonstrates the blend could improve skin firmness.

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Skin sensory evaluation

The skin texture of formula with 5% blend versus placebo were evaluated by 20 trained panelists for spreadability, hydration feel and fresh feel during application (rub-in for 15 cycles), slip feel after application (0 minute) and glossiness after application (0, 5 minutes). As shown in Fig.6, the 5% blend significantly increased spreadability, hydration feel and fresh feel during rub-in. Skin glossiness and smoothness also improved after 0 and 5 minutes application compared to the placebo.

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Conclusion

Natriance ageless biofunctional is a proprietary multifunctional natural ingredient blend designed by Ashland. It contains peptides from hydrolyzed marine collagen, red seaweed extract, natural yeast fermented erythritol and RSPO (The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) glycerin. It has been shown to increase skin collagens expression in ex vivo​ human skin biopsy experiments and provide superior skin moisturization and anti-aging benefits in clinical studies. In addition, it also provides customizable sensory experience, superb spreadability/smoothness in skin care products and is cold processable and easy to use. Natriance ageless biofunctional is listed on China IECIC-CFDA (2015) and IECSC-MEE.

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