Surfactants play a “crucial role in cosmetics development”

By Natasha Spencer

- Last updated on GMT

Surfactants play a “crucial role in cosmetics development”

Related tags: Liquid

Leader in personal care innovation and R&D investment, Shiseido, develops a “core-corona emulsification” technology.

This new technology allows versatility in mixing oil and water, as it enables cosmetic companies to use oil and its composition ratio for emulsification without using surfactants. As traditionally, surfactants are used in the conventional emulsification technology, Shiseido's formulation finding provides an alternative to conventional emulsification activities.

Shiseido hopes that this new technology will introduce innovative cosmetics formulations including “sunscreen with a dewy refreshing texture and high water-resistance”​ and “highly effective moisturising cream without a sticky feel”.

Balancing functions

In a recent press release, the Japanese leader stated that typically these “functions were hard to balance with conventional technologies”.

This new technology was presented at the 68th Divisional Meeting on Colloid and Interface Chemistry on 7th September 2017 in Kobe, Japan and at the 56th Annual Meeting of the Japan Oil Chemists’ Society on 11th September 2017 in Tokyo. At this second event, a Shiseido researcher, Yuki Sugiyama was awarded the Young Researcher Encouragement Award of Japan Oil Chemists’ Society.

This took place ahead of its official launch, which will take place in February 2018, when it will be applied to selected ANESSA products.

Emulsification needs

Shiseido emphasised that creators of cosmetics items including lotion, emulsion and creams, strive to achieve smooth applications, high quality and safety. An additional function is to maintain the healthy condition of both skin and hair.

As these requirements are such a fundamental basis for the development of new cosmetics, emulsification is successful as it “mixes two immiscible liquids such as oil and water by forming granular droplets in one liquid and dispersing them in the other”.

Emulsifiers are used to help stabilise the emulsion. Surfactants are often considered the “most versatile emulsifiers”​ as these “share the characteristics of both oil and water”​.

How do core-corona particles work?

The personal care company has developed a novel hydrophobic/hydrophilic polymer-particle emulsifier, known as the 'core-corona particle'. It is made of an inner 'core' framework with hydrophobic properties and outer corona-possessing hydrophilic properties. These result in a “less sticky”​ or “powdery feel”​ that can emulsify oil and water at a much lower concentration.

“Core-corona particles realize oil-in-water emulsification with the unprecedented freedom in choice of formulation, which far exceeds what conventional emulsifiers could offer,”​ Shiseido revealed.

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