Shiseido announces new anti-aging active after 12 years of development

The new ingredient, Stemlan-173, took the company 12 years to develop. Shiseido said it plans to incorporate its new findings into future products.

“Going forward, Shiseido will apply these new findings to the development of skincare products as an effective technology that helps all sorts of consumers to rejuvenate their skin,”​ it said in a statement.

A new discovery

Shiseido conducted research with a focus on the basement membrane for 30 years, and identified that UV damage to the basement membrane induces the formation of wrinkles and dark spots.

Shiseido’s development of the new active ingredient came after the company discovered laminin-511, a key component of the epidermal basement membrane that existing between the epidermis and dermis, and a vital factor for skin rejuvenation.

The company believes it is the first to discover and study laminin-511.

The company found that laminin-511 is responsible in maintaining epidermal stem cells, but degrades with UV exposure and aging.

The press statement noted that epidermal stem cells refers to cells with a positive expression of Melanoma associated Chondroitin Sulfate Proteoglycan (MCSP).

Shiseido found that UV damage to the basement membrane encourages the formation of wrinkles and dark spots. Furthermore, damage to the basement membrane leads to the decrease of stem cells.

Finding a solution

Shiseido said its researchers spent 30 years on this research, which eventually led to the discovery of Stemlan-173 (hydroxyethyl-imidazolidinone) and its ability to effectively protect the degradation of laminin-511.

Researchers sifted through around 20,000 ingredients to find one that protects the degradation of laminin-511 before succeeding in developing Stemlan-173 after 12 years of ongoing research.

Shiseido confirmed that Stemlan-173 improves skin rejuvenation and overall skin condition by protecting the degradation of laminin-511 and the decrease of epidermal stem cells.

The company explained that epidermal stem cells decrease naturally as we age. With Stemlan-173, it is able to prevent the decrease of epidermal stem cells while maintaining its levels.

In a study conducted by the company, subjects experienced a “significant”​ improvement in skin texture.

Additionally, the research team sought to find an ingredient that could promote the production of laminin-511.

After testing 180 naturally-derived extracts, the team determined the effectiveness of an algae extract, which consists green algae, red algae and brown algae extracts.