Blue light and beyond: Corum’s latest tests show benefits of vitamin C derivative

Et-VC is the signature product from Taiwan-based ingredient supplier Corum, which has carried out several studies over the years to prove the multi-functionality of Et-VC.

Its latest research focuses on how it can protect skin from the damage afflicted by blue light emitted from digital devices.

According to its study, the firm found that 0.5% of Et-VC can boost the collagen level in the skin. In turn, this maintains the structure of the skin and prevents wrinkles from forming.

Snow Hsieh, international sales manager, Corum, told CosmeticsDesign-Asia​ that the company aimed to focus more on the consumer needs of today with this new research.

“We are now in the digital age and I would say blue light is a global problem, not just one in Asia Pacific. Everybody is using smartphone and computers,” ​she said.

“We are now exposed to something that we wouldn’t be exposed to in the past. Just imagine, it’s not just adults but also children that are using the same devices. They will end up ageing a lot faster.”​

Hsieh explained that blue light was a high energy light that induces free radicals and causes skin to age prematurely, similarly to UVA and UVA. Unlike UVA and UVB, the blue light follows us where our portable devices go with us, Hsieh pointed out.

“Awareness about blue-light damage to skin is currently not as high. We see better understanding from those who are more knowledgeable about photo-ageing for instance, but we are sure that awareness will grow eventually,” ​she said.

She added that anti-blue light skin care products are likely to follow in the way of anti-pollution skin care.

“Recently, we have seen more and more people talk about pollution and the damage it can do to the skin, especially in the six and seven years. We have seen a lot of new product launches about pollution. It’s all about awareness, so its important for cosmetic companies to help consumers understand.”​

Multi-functional active

While Et-VC was launched over a decade ago, Hsieh believes the ingredient may be more relevant today more than ever.

“In the market today, we are seeing a trend of products with high concentration of antioxidants. We are seeing products with 10%, 20% and even 30% of vitamin C.”​

She added: “Et-VC may have been in the market for a while, but it is a new generation of water-soluble vitamin C. The main problem with vitamin C is that it oxidises very easily. Et-VC is a stable form. You don't have to worry about your cream turning yellow or brown. You can make a very white emulsion and it can remain this way for two years of shelf life.”​

The best part of Et-VC is its multi-functional aspect, said Hsieh. “We’ve done many studies on this ingredient itself. From skin lightening, UVA and UVB protection, DNA protection… We even have a patent on the hyaluronic acid boosting mechanism as well.”  ​

She believes the versatility of the ingredient also plays into another trend the firm has observed in the market – minimalism.

“Everyone is seeking to minimise. Consumers no longer want a thousand ingredients and only one function. Et-VC fits in well for cosmetic companies because they can always find ways to use it in their formula.”​