Dynamic duo: Lucas Meyers Cosmetics eyeing potential in Asia for pair of tomato-based brightening actives

PhytoflORAL and IBR-TCLC claim to brighten skin tone, giving it a glow while protecting against free-radicals.

IBR-TCLC is meant to be a topical skin care ingredient while PhytoflORAL is meant to taken as an oral supplement.

Both are based on phytoene and phytofluene, colourless carotenoids that can be found in proprietary non-genetically modified tomatoes that are found in Israel.

Dr Shlomo Krispin, IBR product line manager at Lucas Meyers Cosmetics explained that colourless carotenoids were present in all plants and are the precursors to all coloured carotenoids like beta carotene or lycopene.

However, he noted that their unique structure made them stand out from coloured carotenoids.

“They absorb light in the UV range, therefore are colourless. They participate in skin photo protection without colouring the cosmetic formula or the skin. They are less susceptible to oxidation, also they are better absorbed and selectively accumulated in the skin, bringing better cosmetic benefits,” ​said Krispin.

PhytoflORAL and IBR-TCLC were first launched by Israeli Biotechnology Research (IBR), which has since come under the IFF banner after the firm’s acquisition of Frutarom, the firm which previously acquired IBR.

As such, Lucas Meyers Cosmetics considers these to be relaunches.

Alongside the relaunch, the firm has highlighted elements from past clinical research studies such as IBR-TCLC’s effects on bringing down skin sallowness.

In addition, it has also clarified the mechanism of action of phytoene and phytofluene in a recent 2018 in-vitro study.

“We found that phytoene and phytofluene promote the production of factors from the keratinocytes that tell the melanocytes to reduce melanin production,” ​said Krispin.

‘The right time’​

According to Frederica Lam, regional marketing manager, APAC, Lucas Meyers Cosmetics, the evolving market pushed Lucas Meyers Cosmetics to revamp and relaunch the products.

“For the past few years we had this advanced research and mechanisms of actions behind it, but the market was not matured enough at the time. In the past two to three years we’ve seen new terms coming up in the market such as sallowness and dullness, and it feels like the right time to push out these studies.”​

Additionally, consumers in the region have deeper understanding of ‘beauty from within’.

“They are beginning to understand that while topical application is important, oral supplements are important as well, its just like how you improve your health by taking vitamins,” ​said Lam.

Krispin added: “They can be used alone but they definitely can be used together for wholesome protection inside and out.”​

Another selling point of the two ingredient is its multifunctionality.

“On top of being excellent free radical protectors, they are anti-inflammatory and can inhibit melanin production. I think consumers are looking for this king of multi-functionality in their actives​,” said Krispin.

Lucas Meyers Cosmetics plans to target Asia for these launches, where brightening skin care products remain in high demand.

“Generally, if we talk about this product’s brightening effects, I think in Asia there will always be a demand, whether is about getting glowing skin, brightening or illuminating skin,” ​said Lam.

Additionally, she believes there is potential in the market for the products as a ‘new’ ingredient that can generate new interest in the market.

“Both products come from colourless carotenoids which are known to be free radical scavengers. The understanding of free radicals and antioxidants is in the market now but colourless carotenoids but can be a new form of ingredients that can generate new the interest for the consumer.”​

Lam added that there was currently a gap in the market for a more holistic approach to brightening products that takes into account body care as well.

“Most of the products on the market focus a lot on the face, but consumers are now concerned about the body as well. You don’t want your face, neck and arms to be different. PhytoflORAL is about improving the skin on the whole body and IBR-TCLC can use for face as well as body products.”​