Good UV rays? Pola Orbis new sunscreen tech harnesses sunlight to boost collagen and skin clarity

In December 2023, the Japanese cosmetics firm announced that it had researched the effects of red light on dermal fibroblasts and found that exposure to red light can boost the production of collagen, leading to firmer skin.

“Sunlight contains light of a wide range of wavelengths. While ultraviolet rays have harmful effects on the skin, it has been discovered that red light, which enhances the proliferation of cells in the dermis and subcutaneous tissues, includes wavelengths beneficial for nurturing the skin.”​

The firm’s research into the effects of ultraviolet (UV) light on the skin aligns with current consumer demands for sunscreen that goes beyond UV protection and provide functionalities that enhance skin beauty benefits.

This research was used to develop POLA’s B.A. Light Selector.

Red light firms skin​

Existing research recognises that red light promotes the growth of fibroblasts, contributing to skin cell proliferation.

However, Pola Orbis’s latest finding reveals that red light not only boosts fibroblast activity but also stimulates the production of leptin, a hormone that plays a crucial role in increasing various types of collagen.

“The additional discovery of increasing various collagen types through the stimulation of Leptin production further supports the notion that red light is a beneficial wavelength for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity, even among the wavelengths in sunlight.”​

This led researchers to find a way to enhance leptin production induced by red light. The team identified that a combination of chrysanthemum flower, eleuthero root, and burdock root extracts could do this.

“From these results, it can be expected that by actively incorporating red light while blocking ultraviolet rays and utilising these composite extracts, it becomes easier to maintain the firmness and elasticity of the skin.”​

Blue enhances skin appearance​

A separate study explored the effects of blue light on the skin, which the team claimed could enhance skin clarity and therefore the overall appearance of the skin.

The company hoped that a greater understanding of red and blue light would create more effective sun care beyond ultraviolet (UV) light protection.

“Ultraviolet rays in sunlight cause skin ageing. However, visible light in sunlight has known positive effects on both appearance and the skin itself. It is not always optimal to block all light.”​

The goal was to enable the permeation of red light and the scattering of blue light, harnessing the power of sunlight to achieve beautiful and firm skin.

“By achieving technology that allows the transmission of red light and the scattering of blue light, it is believed that sunlight can be utilised to achieve visually beautiful and firm skin.”​

By utilising fine silica particles and controlling their size through a process inspired by Rayleigh scattering principles, the research successfully establishes a formulation that allows both the permeation of red light and the scattering of blue light.

This breakthrough in light control technology opens up possibilities for effective aging care by making optimal use of sunlight in various activities and daily life, the company claimed.